ANOTHER SIDE OF ITALY
Country’s Abruzzo mountains and Sorrento coast among lesser-known gems worth visiting
Italy has many treasures. Whether it’s the Renaissance art of Florence, ancient architecture of Rome or the canals of Venice, there’s no doubt this European gem offers a cornucopia of rich pleasures.
But for those who have already voyaged through Venice’s Grand Canal on a gondola or sipped Chianti by the vineyards of Tuscany, there are endless sites that are not typically featured on the cover of travel guides, but worthy of such space.
Recently, I vacationed with my family in Italy and we chose to go to some lesser-known spots, such as a seaside boutique resort in Sorrento along the western coast, then the awe-inspiring mountains of Abruzzo on the eastern side, near the Adriatic shores.
We travelled in June, which was a good call given the spring showers had passed and the Italian flora — vibrant bougainvillea, wild orchids and poppies — were in full bloom.
We recharged for one night at a Rome hotel, managing to squeeze in visits to the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and a few basilicas.
We then began our two-and-ahalf hour journey to Sorrento by train.
Once we arrived at the Relais Regina Giovanna, we stopped at the main building of the resort that channels seaside farmhouse luxury. Painted in sunny yellow, the quaint 12-room villa, originally a century-old family farmhouse, is perched atop a hill overlooking the Gulf of Naples in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
From the moment we arrived, the travel stress faded as we took in the fresh sea air and the fragrant lemon groves that envelop the 28-hectare property.
Friendly staff appeared to swiftly transfer our luggage to our room, which featured sloped ceilings with exposed wood beams, wrought iron furnishings and terracotta floors.
Each day, a beautiful buffet style breakfast (included in the room price) was ready by 7:30 a.m. with a variety of coffees and freshly squeezed juices, including tangy green apple juice.
Most meals were enjoyed in the outdoor courtyard with its serene patio with planters of lavender and violas.
The name of the restaurant, Bread and Oil, is appropriate given many of the dishes are made from the olives picked and pressed onsite, as well as freshly made pastas with herbs and vegetables grown in the garden. Evening dining can also be enjoyed at the outdoor garden patio with oversized pergola made with natural bamboo grown on the property.
One of our favourite items was the linguine with clams, and Caprese salad with Sorrentine tomato and local mozzarella cheese. The wine list includes varieties from local wineries and from nearby vineyards, such as Montepulciano, from a small Tuscan town, and Mastroberardino, from the Campania region.
The entrance of the Beach House restaurant bar leads to a stunning outdoor terrace with white stucco walls accented by colourful pillows on benches. Guests can enjoy a salad and sandwich with an Aperol spritz cocktail while taking in the sea view and sound of the waves rolling onto the private beach in a natural fiord with soaring cliffs below.
For our daughter, the holiday highlight was playing with the resident dog, Cleo, a large white Italian sheepdog who followed us on our walks along a path by the sea to swim at a nearby lagoon with clear turquoise water.
For those who want to see the Amalfi coast, Sorrento is the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding area. We took day trips to the beautiful seaside town of Positano; and a boat tour to Capri to visit the sparkling Blue Grotto cavern. While the adventures were thrilling, we were always grateful to return to the tranquillity of Relais Regina Giovanna.
On Day 5, we switched gears and returned to Rome to meet the owner of Amazing Abruzzo Tours (and, full disclosure, an old friend) at the airport.
Jake picked us up in a comfortable air-conditioned van with the other guests and we made our way along the freeways for almost two hours, travelling through the majestic Apennine Mountains.
The main villa is located on the outskirts of Torre de’ Passeri, a town of 3,000 people in the heart of the Pescara Valley, 10 minutes from the mountains, and 30 minutes from the Adriatic Coast.
Upon our arrival, Jake’s wife Lisa and their staff greeted guests like family, with a big smile and open arms.
A jasmine bush growing along the front patio emitted a sweet scent that lingered throughout the lovingly restored villa. The 5,000-square-foot building includes five bedrooms, five balconies, six bathrooms, two kitchens and a lower cantina, as well as a large communal dining room and lounge area with large windows. Guests can also book at a separate townhouse down the road.
We were shown to our room, dubbed the Gran Sasso, or Great Rock, with its namesake being the largest mountain in the region at 2,912 metres about an hour north.
All the rooms were clean and comfortable with ensuite bathrooms and plenty of storage to unpack for the week. And in Lisa’s signature way, she left a welcome gift for our daughter. Those special touches were woven throughout our stay.
Each day began with a delicious breakfast. One of the villa’s chefs, Cesidia, made freshly baked goods every morning, and in her attentive, friendly way, made sure our daughter had her favourite chocolate croissant.
At about 9:15 a.m., the tour guides, brothers Giuseppe and Luca, would arrive to take the guests on their excursions. And worth noting, while guests don’t necessarily have to have the abs of a gladiator to join the tours, they should be in decent enough shape to walk a couple of kilometres up a mountain path.
The daily tours take guests to historic locations that include wineries, castles, medieval villages and pristine Adriatic Sea beaches.
During the day trips, we stopped at a local restaurant to eat authentic fare (included in the price of the package). For example, one day we drove most of the way up to the 1,460-metre Castello di Rocca Calascio in the heart of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park. We then hiked to the top to see the dramatic views of the highest mountain fortress in the Apennine range.
Perched on the very tip of a rock outcrop, the castle, which was built in the 10th century, is also the location where scenes from the movies Ladyhawke, The Name of the Rose and The American were filmed. We enjoyed lunch with our group at the nearby hotel and restaurant Rifugio Della Rocca that included local wine and pasta dishes such as pappardelle al ragu di cinghiale, or noodles with wild boar sauce.
Each day we returned from our historic journeys to the modern comforts of the villa. Some went for a swim in the luxurious 12-metre pool, while others sipped cocktails in the outdoor lounge.
On certain days, dinner was served on the upper outdoor terrace overlooking the rolling foothills.
Guests were treated to the chefs’ specialties that included the Abruzzese classic arrosticini lamb skewers; pasta with truffle cream sauce; and risotto with saffron grown in a nearby valley.
As the sun set behind the hills, guests shared their experiences of the day while enjoying the villa’s organic wine from the local Guardiani Farchioni vineyard.
Often after dinners, Jake pulls out his acoustic guitar and plays some classic tunes, while the groups sings along, usually with a limoncello in hand.
One past guest who enjoyed this unexpected touch wrote a testimonial that exceeds any star rating: “If I could ever relive a week of my life it would be that one,” he said.
Sounds like a pretty good reason to take the road less travelled.