Timing of grape harvest critical to flavour profile

Grape harvests are in full swing throughout most of the winegrowing regions in the northern hemisphere. Physiological ripeness of a grape is a big player in the aroma, flavour, colour, structure, alcohol level, aging capacity, and overall balance and style of a wine. Harvest is a crucial stage and it can be a nail-biter for the vineyard manager and winemaker.

Grapes start out as tiny, firm, bright green beads that will begin ripening while increasing in size and gaining thicker skins. The red and black varietals will begin to turn pinkish, while the white varietals change colour to a lighter yellow/green (sometimes with a blush too — for example, Pinot Gris). This process is called veraison (verr-RAY-zohn).

Mother nature’s plan is to prevent birds from eating the grapes until the grape’s seeds (called pips) are mature enough to germinate and does this by making the young berries bitter and unpalatable until the sugars are developed. As the grapes mature, and the sugar level ( brix) goes up, the acidity begins a slow decline in the opposite direction.

Pip development is one indicator of grape maturity, turning from a bitter-tasting green to brown and nutty. Red wine tannins (that drying sensation felt between your front teeth and lip) are from the skins and pips, and when they’re mature they become graceful and smooth.

When a grape is picked prematurely it will result in unpleasant, bitter and herbaceous notes in the wine. Too ripe and the result is high sugar levels and low acidity, creating lacklustre wines with high alcohol levels — referred to as hot wines.

Wines that are low in natural acidity and thick with sweet fruit can be simple and headache-activating — the wine-geek term for these wines is “flabby.” However, pick a berry at optimum ripeness, and they will be balanced with peak flavour and aroma potential.

Acidity that remains when grapes are picked at an appropriate time acts as a natural preservative to keep a wine fresh and interesting.

The timing of picking fruit is up to the winemaker. Old-school vignerons may just use tactile tests, such as picking several berries throughout the vineyard with a focus on a desired wine style. Most often, though, the winemaker also will use an instrument called a refractomer

or hydrometer to measure the grape sugar level before making the call to pick.

Obviously, individual varietal characteristics play a role in grape development and determining the optimum harvest date.

Cabernet Franc is infamous for producing vegetal (green bell pepper) notes that can be off-putting to some, but when it’s picked fully-ripened, it’s many a wine-geek’s favourite varietal. This makes sense when you think that the parents of this grape are Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

There’s some good news out there. Marc Vigneron (a longtime importer living in the Loire) just reported that the 2018 harvest of Cabernet Sauvignon has started two weeks ahead of schedule and the grapes are looking gorgeous. Note to self: Buy 2018 vintage Cabernet Franc from France.

The Okanagan began harvest last week, starting with Sauvignon blanc — one the first to ripen.

If picked too early, it will be vegetal and bell-peppery, but as it ripens notes of gooseberry begin to show; overripe, and melon flavours appear.

Viognier is another grape common in Okanagan vineyards, and can be loaded with character, but if picked too early it lacks flavour. Late, and it will be dull, with elevated alcohol levels with a weird oiliness and lack of acidity.

It’s a tough grape to pick at optimum levels because the varietal has only a moderate level of sugar, so when to pick is critical in order to maintain a moderate acidity.

It’s fun to taste each grape as a single varietal and then try to pick out the nuances each grape

contributes to a blend, such as the Calliope white blend.

Here are some awesome recommendations, listed in order of harvesting dates during an average growing season.

LEONE DE CASTRIS DONNA LISETTA $24

Grapes for sparkling wines are picked first because a highly acidic wine is key to producing a beautiful bubble.

This wine is from southern Italy and the varietal for this wine is called Negroamaro.

They were picked in early September before fully ripe, to retain acidity.

This is a rose spumante that’s crisp and flavourful — perfect for every occasion.

CALLIOPE FIGURE 8 WHITE $19

Burrowing Owl’s second label is Calliope (pronounced ka-LIEoh-pee), paying homage to a hummingbird found in southern British Columbia. Each varietal in this blend matures at different times throughout September and October — Viognier, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay ( being the last to ripen). Deliciously aromatic and flavourful (fruit salad) with lovely acidity to balance the concentration.

LVD BOURGUEUIL LEFIEF $17

Chinon is a wine-producing region in France dating back to 990 and the monks of the Abbaye of St. Peter, so you can expect a glass of history and expertise in this smooth wine that’s beautifully balanced (acidity, tannins and fruit) with herbal notes and full of juicy, ripe blackberries. Terrific value.

CHATEAU GRAND TERRIER DES EYRIAUX BORDEAUX $16

A composition of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Most (other than Cabernet Franc) are later ripening varietals. This little Bordeaux is currently the 2012 vintage, which wasn’t ideal. Cabernet Sauvignon struggled to ripen so the tannins are dominant in this plum, cassis and dark-berried wine. Might be fun to pick up the 2012 now and then try a warmer vintage such as 2015, 2016 or 2018. This is a very small producer know for quality wines, Michel Bouchereau.

MONTEZEMOLO LANGHE NEBBIOLO $32

Nebbiolo produces some of Italy’s greatest wines (Barolo and Barbaresco) and it is also one of the last grapes harvested. This long, slow grape development produces full-bodied, complex layers of flavour, fresh acidity and powerful tannins for a wine with great aging potential. This Nebbiolo overdelivers, produced from the heart of the famous Barolo region, La Morra. Harvesting for Nebbiolo will begin at the end of September or beginning of October. A truly incredible and complex wine with red berries and fresh, soft tannins while full of flavour.

Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability, then call to verify.

Juanita Roos opened Color de Vino, a fine wine and spirits store, with her family in 2014. She has travelled to wine regions around the world and completed the prestigious WSET Diploma from London, England, the prerequisite for the Master of Wine program. Send your questions about wine to info@colordevino.ca.