IS BIG REALLY BETTER?
One writer decided to find out if the world's largest cruise ship meets the hype
On the fifth hour of their shore excursion, the cruise ship passengers were losing steam. Many slumped in their seats as a smaller boat shuttled them from Nevis to St. Kitts. As soon as the Icon of the Seas came into view, however, everyone perked up.
The group had toured a sugar plantation, a rum distillery and Alexander Hamilton's birthplace. Yet the biggest attraction of the day was the mother ship they had boarded three days earlier in Miami. The hulking vessel dwarfed the Caribbean landscape and cast a long shadow over the water. For several seconds, the sun disappeared.
“It's a monster, isn't it?” a passenger exclaimed as he snapped photos of the world's largest cruise ship.
Royal Caribbean International's newest showpiece took its maiden voyage on Jan. 27, dethroning the previous titleholder for size, the cruise line's Wonder of the Seas. The 1,198-foot-long ship weighs 250,800 gross tons. Jay Schneider, the company's chief product innovation officer, said it can accommodate up to 7,508 guests, depending on cabin occupancy. There is also room for more than 2,000 crew members.
“I was nervous about how many people were going to be stuck on this ship,” said Alecia Bimonte, 45, a Tampa-based teacher sailing with her husband, Anthony. “But once we got on and saw everything, it put me at ease.”
The Icon is all about the superlatives. It boasts the largest ice skating rink at sea, the tallest drop slide at sea and the most expansive pool at sea. Its long list of “firsts at sea” includes a suspended infinity pool, a walk-up champagne bar and a chief dog officer named Rover.
To experience the enormousness of the Icon, we booked passage on the inaugural cruise. As we explored its 20 decks from forward to stern, we would try to answer the burning question: Is bigger better, or did Royal Caribbean go overboard?
BOARDING IS A BREEZE
For Icon's first revenue voyage, Royal Caribbean capped the number of passengers at just under 5,000 to smooth out any kinks.
At the Miami terminal, Royal Caribbean's app has helped remove the pain points typically associated with the check-in process. After showing my passport and grinning for the camera, I waltzed on board — 12 minutes flat. Before heading to my stateroom to pick up my SeaPass card, the room key with onboard purchasing power, I swung by the karaoke bar. A crew member demonstrated how to use a life-jacket, checked my name off on a clipboard and then returned to singing softly to herself.
The muster-at-your-leisure drill may have confused some passengers. Two and a half hours before departure, the cruise director made an announcement: 700 people had not completed their safety briefing. “They can't sail without checking in,” he warned.
Fortunately, they figured it out. At around 5:30 p.m., the captain blew the horn, and the Icon shuddered to life.
Icon tip: To expedite the arrival process, check in on the app, fill out your health questionnaire within 24 hours of departure and dump all of your liquids before you reach security.
WHAT TO DO ON THE ICON OF THE SEAS
The Icon offers several eastern and western Caribbean itineraries. The seven-day cruises include three ports and three at-sea days, so cruisers have a lot of ship time.
Royal Caribbean does its best to prevent boredom. Passengers can soak in nine whirlpools and lounge at seven pools, including the Hideaway, an adults-only infinity pool with a glass wall that reminded me of an aquarium exhibit.
Most of the adventurous activities are on Thrill Island, one of eight “neighbourhoods,” or thematic zones. At Crown's Edge, an attraction that loosely combines highlining and ziplining, participants in jumpsuits and harnesses step gingerly along the side of the ship before the skyway drops, catapulting them over the water and back to the landing pad. The high-flying feat takes only a few minutes.
There's a water park featuring six rides of varying scream levels. Two towers include three rides each; Schneider said this will alleviate waits. Royal Caribbean designed the attraction with 2,000 kids in mind so that no one will have to stand in line for more than 20 minutes.
At Storm Chaser, a mat race down a twisty slide, my already short wait was cut in half when a crew member pulled me to the front of the line because I was solo.
To recover from the adrenalin rush, I attended a hair demo at the spa's beauty salon. At the Ladies Pampering Party, women with flawless skin walked around the room squeezing lotions and serums onto our fingertips.
From then on, I swore off all “self-improvement” activities. I played pickle ball, learned to dance the bachata and attended a stretch class with an instructor who called out positions like a drill sergeant.
Icon tip: To save money on the
Crown's Edge, book a spot on a port day, when the price drops. Check the Cruise Compass for spa specials, such as $169 for a 75-minute massage.
BARS AND RESTAURANTS
There weren't enough hours in the seven-day cruise to eat and drink at all 40-plus restaurants, bars and lounges.
The dining options are split between complimentary venues and specialty restaurants that charge a cover fee or à la carte prices. For my one splurge, I reserved a table at Izumi in the Park, which serves Japanese cuisine including Benihana-style teppanyaki and takeout sushi.
I ate most of my meals at the Windjammer buffet. For snacks, I swung by Pearl Cafe, the only venue open 24/7, and the new AquaMarket, a food hall.
The Dining Room evoked oldschool cruising, with set dining times (unless you choose My
Time Dining), white tablecloths, assigned tables and a team of attentive servers who never let your water glass drop below the halfway mark.
Icon tip: If a specialty restaurant is booked for dinner, try lunch, which usually has more openings and costs less.
THE TAKE AWAY
The Icon is massive and caters to the masses. Even so, I could carve out an experience that aligned with my travel style.
I could always find a seat around the pool, if not in the pool. I never wanted for anything or waited too long. To squeeze the most out of the ship, I needed to plan better and pay more for extras.
With a few exceptions, I never felt squished. However, once the ship reaches full capacity, I worry that Icon will become a literal sea of humanity, and the sparkle of the early cruises could fade.