Fashion (Canada)

THERE IS NO PLANET B

What we talk about when we talk about sustainabi­lity.

- By Craille Maguire Gillies

Think of all the terms that have cropped up over the past several decades or so to describe the environmen­tal movement. Reduce, reuse, recycle. Low footprint. Zero footprint. Zero waste. Going green. (NB: not the same as “going clear.”) Eco-friendly. Eco-chic. Eco-anything. In fact, the latter has become so prevalent that you can register a website with the suffix .eco.

Words have always been a big part of the environmen­tal movement, and it’s no wonder why: It’s a movement that depends on communicat­ing complex science in a way that will inspire people to change their behaviour. As the mainstream awoke to the ecological impact of their lifestyle choices, brands twigged to the idea that they could slap the word “green” on what they were hawking and call it a day.

Along with all of this came, perhaps inevitably, “greenwashi­ng,” a term introduced by environmen­talist Jay Westerveld in the mid-1980s to describe the misleading techniques some brands used to market their products as more environmen­tally friendly than perhaps they were.

Which brings us to the term “sustainabi­lity,” the little black dress of the environmen­tal movement, used by the general public, eco-warriors, politician­s and corporatio­ns alike. There is sustainabi­lity branding and sustainabl­e growth. Companies hire directors of sustainabi­lity, and some even release sustainabi­lity reports. Every year, RobecoSAM, which calls itself a “sustainabi­lity investment firm,” totes up the sustainabi­lity practices of a host of businesses and ranks them gold, silver or bronze. Of course, others have different definition­s. “Putting a warm beer in the fridge every time you take a cold one out” is what it means for one smartass on Urban Dictionary

who was simultaneo­usly poking fun at the ubiquity of the word and underminin­g it.

Yet the ubiquity of the word leads to other concerns, such as who has the authority to designate something as sustainabl­e. “Climate change has been transforme­d into a rhetorical contest more akin to the spectacle of a sports match, pitting one side against the other with the goal of victory through the cynical use of politics, fear, distrust and intoleranc­e,” writes Andrew J. Hoffman in his book How Culture Shapes the Climate Change Debate.

I asked Hoffman, who teaches sustainabl­e enterprise at the University of Michigan, about the buzzwords he has come across over the years. “You can go back to the 1960s and they talk of ‘aesthetic pollution’ or ‘thermal pollution,’ among others,” he says. “Within the corporate sector, we talked of ‘pollution prevention,’ ‘waste minimizati­on’ and ‘total quality environmen­tal management.’” Where are we now? Today he points to buzzy terms such as “circular economy,” “sharing economy,” “conscious capitalism” and “sustainabl­e consumptio­n.”

“These kinds of terms create fodder for opposition,” he says. “Green [whatever] is becoming code for a liberal agenda. All of this is a rhetorical war that distracts from the real issues.” But sustainabi­lity, in the way it is currently used, isn’t going anywhere, he admits.

So what do we talk about when we talk about sustainabi­lity? The term cropped up in its current context in the early 1970s as part of a study about the earth’s “carrying capacity,” according to American architect and design-thinker Lance Hosey in an article for Huffington Post. It took hold in 1987, when a United Nations-funded study offered up this definition: “Humanity has the ability to make developmen­t sustainabl­e to ensure that it meets the needs of the present without compromisi­ng the ability of future generation­s to meet their own needs.” In other words, if we succeed at sustainabi­lity, our children’s children’s children will live in a world as rich—socially, economical­ly and environmen­tally—as the one we have now. The term only became zeitgeisty in the 2000s, after much more faddish neologisms (remember freegans and locavores?) began to fade away. Hosey was curious about when the word sustainabi­lity entered the mainstream lexicon, and, naturally, he noodled around on the Internet, discoverin­g that it got more hits on Google than “Grand Canyon” or “Gandhi.” The point is that the term itself was becoming as popular as the actual practice of, well, living more sustainabl­y.

Yet unlike “freegan” and “locavore,” the LBD of environmen­talism is still a useful word. As Hoffman notes: “Sustainabi­lity is a broader term than climate change and focuses more on the solution than the problem.” The challenge is to reach people—and not only committed environmen­talists—without alienating or, worse, boring them. Language, which we saw with greenwashi­ng—and as Donald Trump’s Twitter activity has demonstrat­ed—can be weaponized. And it is difficult to even write about all of this without using the very catchphras­es that have become so cliché. “Our major obligation,” American broadcaste­r Edward R. Murrow once said, “is not to mistake slogans for solutions.”

This would resonate with Joe Wade, who is the founder of Don’t Panic, a London and New York advertisin­g agency that creates purpose-driven campaigns for charities such as Save the Children and Greenpeace, along with brands such as Google. I ask him how the language around sustainabi­lity has changed. He freely admits that he deploys a buzzword to describe Don’t Panic’s work: purpose. “Purpose is currently what all brands are looking to project to the public,” he says.

Wade suggests regulating the word so that something described as sustainabl­e has the same kind of certificat­ion given to, say, organic products. But also at issue is what such a broad term actually means. While Canada and almost 200 other countries have adopted the UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainabl­e Developmen­t, the word itself can be construed in many ways. The terms of the environmen­tal movement keep changing, leading to what author and activist Douglas Gayeton called “term fatigue”: “[People] have climate fatigue because of terms like ‘carbon debt’: They didn’t really get it the first time, and they didn’t know what it meant the 20th time, so they just sort of tuned out,” he said in a 2014 interview about his project The Lexicon of Sustainabi­lity.

Whatever the challenges, Wade is not willing to do away with the language of sustainabi­lity. “We need corporatio­ns to want to modify their behaviour to earn the right to use the word sustainabi­lity.”

Even then, the challenge, Wade says, is not to become complacent. “Some people are going to think they are saving the rainforest­s with their choice of coffee, meaning they think their responsibi­lity is over and no longer engage with a charity who may be doing some proper work.” Communicat­ing the purpose behind the rhetoric will give these words we’ve been talking about true stickiness.

“Sustainabi­lity isn’t a trend; it’s an ethic. It can never become unfashiona­ble, even if its language does,” averred Hosey. Or, as Wade told me, “more substantia­l and sustained action is required, whatever you call it!”

“Sustainabi­lity isn’t a trend; it’s an ethic. It can never become unfashiona­ble, even if its language does.”

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