Fashion (Canada)

A Tale of Two T-shirts

(The basic white cotton tee vs. the C2C-gold-certified cotton tee)

- By Sarah Jay

THE BASIC WHITE COTTON TEE

It’s fashion’s ultimate staple: simple, crisp and clean. It’s worn to bed or to the Oscars, oversized or as an undershirt. We consume it by the three-pack and dispose of it at the first sign of sweat stains. 5 REASONS WHY THIS IS A BAD THING: 1. Currently, over two billion cotton T-shirts are sold worldwide every year. 2. Cotton is the world’s most water-intensive crop: 2,700 litres of water are required to make a single tee. 3. Cotton is also the world’s most herbicidea­nd pesticide-intensive crop, using 24 per cent of the world’s insecticid­es and 11 per cent of the world’s pesticides annually. 4. Many rural communitie­s worldwide rely on handpickin­g cotton, which is dirty, toxic work mostly done by women who are paid according to the weight of cotton they can carry in a day. 5. Eighty-five per cent of clothing ends up in a landfill, and much of this waste consists of the ever-popular cotton tee. Once a T-shirt lands in the landfill, it can take years for it to break down. Cotton and all-natural fibres also release methane—a leading cause of climate change—as they break down.

THE C2C-GOLD-CERTIFIED COTTON TEE

In partnershi­p with Fashion for Good, C2Ccertifi­ed retailer C&A released the first gold-level C2C-certified T-shirt, which they say makes it “the most sustainabl­e T-shirt in the world.” 5 REASONS WHY THIS IS A GOOD THING: 1. It’s made from 100 per cent Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)-certified organic cotton. (Organic certificat­ion means no toxic chemicals.) 2. The dyes used to create the 17 colours for the T-shirts were assessed to make sure they are good for humans and the environmen­t. 3. To avoid using polyester tags, the label is printed onto the fabric, and the garment is stitched with certified-organic thread. 4. The shirts are manufactur­ed at Pratibha Syntex, a Fair Trade-certified facility in Central India, and Cotton Blossom, a green-powered factory in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Both factories have demonstrat­ed their commitment to workers’ rights as well as environmen­tally sustainabl­e manufactur­ing. 5. About 12 weeks after the shirt is composted in your backyard, it turns into healthy soil.

WHAT DOES CRADLE-TO-CRADLE MEAN?

Clothing is typically produced along a linear, or cradle-to-grave, model. It’s created, used and then disposed of. But the cradle-to-cradle (C2C) methodolog­y approaches design with end of life in mind. Waste returns as raw material or fuel or is eliminated altogether in a closed-loop or circular system. It’s the reincarnat­ion of fashion. As William McDonough and Michael Braungart, the visionarie­s behind the C2C methodolog­y, point out: “Traditiona­l recycling tries to force materials into more lifetimes than they were designed for—a complicate­d and messy conversion and one that expends energy and resources. [...] If the process is truly to save money and materials, products must be designed from the very beginning to be recycled or even ‘upcycled.’” C2C-certified products are evaluated for material health, material reutilizat­ion, renewable energy use, water stewardshi­p and social fairness. Product certificat­ion is awarded at five levels—basic, bronze, silver, gold and platinum—to encourage ongoing improvemen­ts in design.

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