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TWICE-BAKED SOUF­FLÉS WITH TAPE­NADE & GOAT CHEESE

Al­though these souf­flés aren’t quite as airy as those baked at the last minute, nei­ther are they as stress­ful. Ours can be made well ahead and will puff up sat­is­fac­to­rily after just a few min­utes in the oven (crank up the oven temp and bake the souf­flés while the pork is rest­ing). We’ve topped them with goat cheese and a zippy tomato-olive mix­ture, but other com­bos work well—try shred­ded ched­dar and a fruit chut­ney, or curls of smoked salmon and crème fraîche—or team them with ba­con or sausage for brunch.

SOUF­FLÉS

Soft­ened un­salted but­ter for greas­ing

¼ cup (60 mL) finely grated Parme­san cheese 3 tbsp (45 mL) un­salted but­ter

¼ cup (60 mL) all-pur­pose flour

1 cup (250 mL) whole milk (3.25%)

1 tbsp (15 mL) smooth Di­jon mus­tard

½ tsp (2 mL) dried herbes de Provence

¼ tsp (1 mL) kosher salt

¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pep­per 4 egg yolks

5 egg whites

TAPE­NADE TOP­PING

½ cup (125 mL) seeded, finely chopped toma­toes, prefer­ably a mix of yel­low and red

½ cup (125 mL) pit­ted Kala­mata olives, finely chopped

1 tbsp (15 mL) drained and rinsed ca­pers, finely chopped

1 tsp (5 mL) minced fresh oregano leaves

½ tsp (2 mL) finely grated lemon zest

Freshly ground black pep­per to taste

3 oz (85 g) soft goat cheese, crum­bled

Oregano sprigs for gar­nish 1 But­ter six 1-cup (250-mL) ramekins. Sprin­kle Parme­san evenly among ramekins, then ro­tate ramekins to coat bases and sides lightly with Parme­san. Place ramekins in a large shal­low roast­ing pan and set aside.

2 In a medium saucepan, melt but­ter over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook, stir­ring, for 1 minute.

3 Re­move saucepan from heat and grad­u­ally whisk in milk un­til well com­bined and mix­ture is smooth. Re­turn saucepan to medium heat and cook, whisk­ing con­stantly, un­til mix­ture is bub­bly, thick­ened and smooth, about 2 min­utes. Whisk in mus­tard, herbs, salt and pep­per.

4 Re­move saucepan from heat, scrape mix­ture into a large bowl and let cool com­pletely, whisk­ing oc­ca­sion­ally. Whisk in egg yolks, 1 at a time.

5 Ad­just oven rack to mid­dle po­si­tion and pre­heat oven to 400°F (200°C). Boil a ket­tle of wa­ter.

6 In a large, grease-free bowl, whisk egg whites un­til they hold stiff peaks. Stir about one-quar­ter of egg whites into egg-yolk mix­ture to lighten it. Grad­u­ally fold in re­main­ing egg whites, one-third at a time, un­til no white streaks re­main.

7 Spoon souf­flé mix­ture into pre­pared ramekins, di­vid­ing evenly (ramekins will be very full). Pull out oven rack and set roast­ing pan con­tain­ing ramekins on rack. Pour boil­ing wa­ter from ket­tle into roast­ing pan to come half­way up sides of ramekins, tak­ing care not to splash wa­ter on souf­flé mix­ture. Care­fully slide oven rack back into oven. Cook souf­flés un­til they are well risen and golden brown, about 20 min­utes.

8 Re­move ramekins from roast­ing pan, set on a wire rack and let cool for 10 min­utes. Run a pal­ette knife around 1 souf­flé to loosen it. Turn it out onto your clean palm, then in­vert onto a parch­ment-pa­per-lined bak­ing sheet so top of souf­flé is up­per­most. Re­peat with re­main­ing souf­flés. Let cool to room tem­per­a­ture. (Souf­flés will de­flate as they cool, but don’t panic.)

9 To store souf­flés, place them in a sin­gle layer in an air­tight con­tainer and re­frig­er­ate for up to 2 days. Or loosely cover bak­ing sheet with plas­tic wrap and freeze un­til souf­flés are solid. Pack frozen souf­flés in a freezer bag and freeze for up to 1 month. Thaw frozen souf­flés on a parch­ment-pa­per-lined bak­ing sheet in re­frig­er­a­tor overnight be­fore pro­ceed­ing with recipe. 10 For top­ping, stir to­gether toma­toes, olives, ca­pers, oregano, lemon zest and pep­per to taste in a medium bowl. Set aside at room tem­per­a­ture.

11 To serve, ad­just oven rack to mid­dle po­si­tion and pre­heat oven to 400°F (200°C). Bake souf­flés on parch­ment-pa­per-lined bak­ing sheet un­til hot through­out, about 15 min­utes.

12 Place souf­flés on in­di­vid­ual plates and top each with goat cheese, di­vid­ing evenly. Spoon tomato mix­ture on top of each souf­flé. Gar­nish with oregano and serve at once.

Serves 6

SMOKY ROAST PORK LOIN WITH HONEY GLAZE

Smok­i­ness, heat and a touch of sweet­ness com­bine in this juicy pork roast. A dou­ble pork loin roast con­sists of two pieces of loin tied into a neat roast with string. If your non­stick skil­let doesn’t have an oven­proof han­dle, wrap the han­dle tightly in a dou­ble layer of foil.

1 large orange

8 cups (2 L) cold wa­ter

½ cup (125 mL) gran­u­lated sugar

½ cup (125 mL) kosher salt

2 bushy stalks thyme

2 bay leaves

1 bone­less cen­tre-cut dou­ble pork loin roast, about 3 lbs (1.36 kg)

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, di­vided

1 shal­lot, finely chopped

1 clove gar­lic, minced

1 tsp (5 mL) smoked pa­prika

1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped thyme leaves 1 tsp (5 mL) minced drained canned chipo­tle chili in adobo sauce

Kitchen string

¼ cup (60 mL) liq­uid honey

2 cups (500 mL) low-sodium chicken stock ¼ cup (60 mL) whip­ping cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pep­per to taste

Thyme sprigs for gar­nish

1 With a small, sharp knife, pare two 2-inch (5-cm) strips of orange rind from orange, avoid­ing white pith. Set orange aside.

2 In a large bowl or Dutch oven, whisk to­gether wa­ter, sugar, salt, thyme stalks, bay leaves and strips of orange rind, un­til sugar and salt dis­solve.

3 Snip strings ty­ing pork to­gether and sep­a­rate the 2 halves of roast. Add both pieces of pork to bowl, mak­ing sure they are sub­merged (if not, add more wa­ter). Cover and set aside at room tem­per­a­ture for 1 hour.

4 Mean­while, grate re­main­ing orange zest from orange into a small bowl. Squeeze juice from orange into a sep­a­rate small bowl and set aside.

5 In a large oven­proof non­stick skil­let, heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil over medium heat. Add shal­lot and cook, stir­ring, un­til shal­lot is soft­ened but not browned, about 3 min­utes.

6 Stir in gar­lic and smoked pa­prika. Cook, stir­ring, un­til fra­grant, about 30 sec­onds. Re­move skil­let from heat and scrape shal­lot mix­ture into a small bowl. Wipe out skil­let and set aside but do not wash.

7 Stir re­served grated orange zest, chopped thyme and chipo­tle into shal­lot mix­ture. Let cool com­pletely.

8 Ad­just oven rack to mid­dle po­si­tion and pre­heat oven to 325°F (160°C).

9 Drain and rinse pork, dis­card­ing liq­uid and flavour­ings. Spread half of shal­lot mix­ture over flat side of one-half of pork. Place other half of pork on top to re­assem­ble roast and tie tightly in sev­eral places with kitchen string. Pat pork roast dry with pa­per tow­els.

10 In same skil­let, heat re­main­ing oil over medium-high heat. Add pork and brown on all sides, in­clud­ing both ends, 12 to 18 min­utes. Re­move skil­let from heat. Re­move pork to a plate and let cool slightly. Dis­card any fat in skil­let and wipe out any burned bits.

11 Spread re­main­ing shal­lot mix­ture over top and both ends of pork. Re­turn pork to skil­let and trans­fer skil­let to oven. Roast, un­cov­ered, for 45 min­utes.

12 Mean­while, whisk to­gether honey and 2 tbsp (30 mL) of re­served orange juice. When pork has roasted 45 min­utes, driz­zle half of honey mix­ture over pork. Roast for 10 min­utes. 13 Driz­zle re­main­ing honey mix­ture over pork and roast un­til a meat ther­mome­ter in­serted in cen­tre of pork reg­is­ters 135°F (57°C) to 140°F (60°C), 10 to 15 min­utes.

14 Wear­ing oven mitts to lift skil­let, re­move it from oven and trans­fer pork to a cut­ting board. Cover pork with foil and a clean bath towel. Let rest for at least 15 or up to 30 min­utes.

15 While pork rests, still wear­ing oven mitts, place skil­let over burner. Add chicken stock and re­main­ing orange juice to skil­let and bring to a boil over high heat, stir­ring to scrape up any browned bits from bot­tom of skil­let. Con­tinue to boil, stir­ring of­ten, un­til liq­uid has re­duced and thick­ened slightly, 3 to 5 min­utes.

16 Add cream and sim­mer un­til sauce has thick­ened slightly, 2 to 3 min­utes. Taste and add salt and pep­per if nec­es­sary. Strain sauce into a pitcher.

17 Cut pork into slices and ar­range on a serv­ing plat­ter. Driz­zle some of sauce over pork, then gar­nish with thyme sprigs. Serve re­main­ing sauce along­side pork.

Serves 6

STEAMED RAP­INI WITH GRE­MO­LATA BUT­TER

The tra­di­tional top­ping for osso bucco adds punchy flavour to this sim­ple side.

2 tbsp (30 mL) un­salted but­ter, soft­ened 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped pars­ley

2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated lemon zest

1 tsp (5 mL) finely minced gar­lic

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pep­per to taste

2 bunches rap­ini

1 In a small bowl, stir to­gether but­ter, pars­ley, lemon zest, gar­lic and salt and pep­per to taste. Set aside.

2 Trim stem ends from rap­ini and dis­card any wilted or dam­aged leaves. Cut re­main­ing leaves and crowns from stems and set aside.

3 With a small par­ing knife, peel stems, then cut di­ag­o­nally into ½-inch (1-cm) pieces.

4 Have ready a large bowl lined with a cou­ple of sheets of pa­per towel. In a large steamer bas­ket set over boil­ing wa­ter, steam rap­ini, cov­ered, un­til just ten­der, 2 to 3 min­utes.

5 With tongs, trans­fer rap­ini to pa­per-tow­ellined bowl. Shake bowl gen­tly to dry rap­ini. 6 Re­move pa­per towel, leav­ing rap­ini in bowl. Add gre­mo­lata but­ter to bowl and toss gen­tly to coat rap­ini. Trans­fer to a warm serv­ing plat­ter and serve at once.

Serves 6

RUS­TIC ROOT MASH WITH SAGE-CHED­DAR TOP­PING Don’t mash this combo of roots too smoothly: a lit­tle tex­ture is a beau­ti­ful thing.

1 medium cel­ery root (a.k.a. cele­riac), about 1½ lbs (680 g)

4 medium parsnips, about 1 lb (455 g)

3 medium car­rots, about 1 lb (455 g)

Kosher salt to taste

¼ cup (60 mL) un­salted but­ter, di­vided

1 cup (250 mL) panko crumbs

½ cup (125 mL) shred­ded old ched­dar cheese 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh sage leaves Freshly ground black pep­per to taste

¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped chives

1 Peel and trim cel­ery root, parsnips and car­rots then cut into small chunks. In a large pot, com­bine veg­eta­bles with enough wa­ter to cover them. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil over high heat. Re­duce heat to medium and cook, cov­ered, un­til very ten­der, 25 to 30 min­utes.

2 Mean­while, melt half of but­ter in a small skil­let over medium heat. Add panko crumbs and cook, stir­ring of­ten, un­til crumbs are golden, about 3 min­utes. Scrape crumbs into a medium bowl and let cool com­pletely. Stir in ched­dar, sage and salt and pep­per to taste. Set aside.

3 When veg­eta­bles are ready, drain well and re­turn them to pot over low heat, shak­ing pot to dry veg­eta­bles slightly. Add re­main­ing but­ter to veg­eta­bles and mash roughly (the eas­i­est way to do this is to beat them with a hand­held elec­tric mixer).

4 Stir in chives and sea­son gen­er­ously with salt and pep­per. Scrape veg­eta­bles into a shal­low 8-cup (2-L) oven­proof dish. Sprin­kle evenly with crumb mix­ture. (Mash can be re­frig­er­ated for up to 1 day.)

5 When nearly ready to serve, pre­heat oven to 325°F (160°C). Bake, un­cov­ered, for 30 min­utes. In­crease oven tem­per­a­ture to 400°F (200°C) and bake un­til veg­eta­bles are bub­bly and top­ping is golden brown, about 15 min­utes.

Serves 6

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