Crushing on garlic

SLOW-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH FOUR HEADS OF GARLIC

Chicken thighs and drummies are slowly roasted with butter, sage and whole heads of garlic, yielding a rich pan sauce tempered by the briny bite of capers. The garlic becomes unbelievably creamy, and the chicken is crisp and succulent. This method for cooking chicken was developed by Andy Baraghani at Bon Appétit.

4 large chicken thighs, about 2 lbs (905 g) total 4 large chicken drumsticks, about 1 lb (455 g) total

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 heads garlic

3 bay leaves

12 large sage leaves

2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter, melted

1/3 cup (80 mL) dry white wine

3 tbsp (45 mL) capers, rinsed

Crusty bread for serving

1 Preheat oven to 325°F (163°C).

2 Place chicken in a large heavy-duty baking dish. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Arrange skin-side up. With a sharp serrated knife, cut a layer off top of garlic heads, just enough to expose tops of cloves. Add, cutsides down, to dish with chicken. (It’s okay if it’s snug.) Tuck bay and sage leaves between and under chicken. Brush everything with melted butter. Pour wine into pan.

3 Bake chicken on middle rack. After 30 minutes, baste chicken and garlic. After another 30 minutes, baste again and add capers. Continue cooking until chicken is browned and almost falling off the bone, another 30 minutes (or 1 1/2 hours in total). Let stand for 10 minutes. Serve in middle of table with crusty bread for mopping up juices and spreading garlic.

Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE

Ripe berry fruit, spice and savoury herbal notes will highlight the sweet roasted garlic and sage flavours. Ripe tannins and balanced acidity refresh your palate.

Villa Antinori Toscana IGT LCBO 53876, $25.00

SQUASH TART WITH GARLIC CONFIT, GRUYERE & ROSEMARY

This French-style pizza is a triumph of caramelized onions, sweet squash, funky Gruyère and melty garlic confit, all on a flaky puff pastry crust. Garlic confit is delicious in mashed potatoes or as a sandwich condiment, plus it yields a lot of garlic oil, which can be used for everything from dressings to roasted vegetables.

GARLIC CONFIT

2 cups (500 mL) peeled garlic cloves (6 to 8 heads)

6 small sprigs thyme

1 small bay leaf

1 cup (250 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 cup (250 mL) canola oil

2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil

2 lbs (905 g) onions, thinly sliced

Water as needed

1 tsp (5 mL) balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3-lb (1.36-kg) butternut squash

Oil from garlic confit

Flour for dusting

1 pkg (400 g to 500 g) frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 egg, lightly beaten

7 oz (200 g) Gruyère, coarsely grated 12 cloves garlic confit, drained

2 tbsp (30 mL) rosemary leaves

1 tbsp (15 mL) hulled pumpkin seeds

1 For the garlic confit, place garlic, thyme and bay leaf in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan so that the garlic fits snugly in 1 layer. Add oil. Place over medium heat. When oil starts bubbling, reduce heat to lowest setting. Simmer garlic until barely coloured and very soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely. Very gently spoon garlic into a 2-cup (500-mL) glass jar. Pour in enough garlic oil to cover, saving rest for another use. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

2 Heat 2 tbsp (25 mL) canola oil in a large frying pan (not nonstick) over high heat.

Add onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring regularly, until brown layer has formed on bottom of pan, 4 to 5 minutes. Deglaze pan with splash of water, stirring up brown bits with wooden spoon. Repeat process 2 more times, or until onions are soft, sweet and brown. Stir in vinegar and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to plate to cool. (Onions will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 5 days.)

3

Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C).

4 Cut neck from bulbous base of squash, saving base for another use. Peel squash neck. Cut in half lengthwise. Slice each half into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick half-moons and place on a large parchment-paper-lined baking tray. (You only need enough to cover 1 baking tray, so save the rest for another use.) Brush both sides lightly with garlic oil and season with salt. Bake on middle rack until just tender,

12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven.

5 Dust work surface with flour. Roll puff pastry into roughly a 10 x 15-inch (25 x 38-cm) rectangle. Transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking tray. With the tip of a paring knife, score a 3/4-inch (2-cm) border. Brush border with beaten egg. Spread a thin layer of onions within border, saving rest for another use. Sprinkle cheese over onions and top with squash. Arrange garlic confit on top. Toss rosemary and pumpkin seeds with a few drops of garlic oil and sprinkle over tart.

6 Bake on bottom rack until puffed and brown, about 20 minutes. Cool at least 20 minutes before serving. If top is a bit oily, blot with paper towel. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6

WHAT TO SERVE

This Rhône red presents ripe red berry, thyme and rosemary tones, along with enough weight to match the tart’s flavours and textures.

Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 363457, $16.95