Food & Drink

Notable Nibbles

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BREAKFAST TACO FOR ONE

Food writer Grace Elkus’s viral technique of frying an egg in feta was more than a passing fad—it’s now a standard way to cook eggs. Our version doesn’t fry it as hard, so the bottom is crisp and the top is creamy.

It’s slid onto a flour tortilla slathered with mashed avocado and topped with a piquant salsa verde and smoky chipotle powder. It’s a delicious way to whip up breakfast (or lunch) in minutes.

1 medium (6 1/2-inch/16-cm) flour tortilla 1 tsp (5 mL) canola oil

1/3 cup (80 mL) crumbled good-quality feta 1 egg

1/2 ripe avocado

Salt to taste

1 lime wedge

1 tbsp (15 mL) jarred Mexican salsa verde Pinch of chipotle pepper powder

Cilantro leaves to garnish

1. Heat a small, nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook tortilla until browned in spots, about 20 seconds per side. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add oil to pan then carefully sprinkle feta around the outer edge of pan. Crack egg into middle. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until white is set and yolk is still runny, about 2 minutes.

3. While egg is cooking, mash avocado flesh onto tortilla with a fork. Season with salt. Squeeze lime over avocado.

4. When egg is ready, carefully transfer to tortilla. Drizzle with salsa verde. Sprinkle with chipotle powder and cilantro leaves. Serve immediatel­y.

Serves 1

WHAT TO SERVE

Tecate

LCBO 45955, 473 mL, $3.40

A crisp Mexican lager with flavours of lightly toasted malt and hops is an ideal pairing with the salty feta cheese, the green creamy avocado and the gentle heat of the chipotle.

UPSIDE-DOWN PINEAPPLE TARTS

Lily Ghodrati (@lilyghodra­ti) went beyond viral on TikTok with her super-simple tarts of nectarines, honey and puff pastry. We took inspiratio­n from her upside-down hack and made our own version with fresh pineapple and brown sugar. Unlike most desserts, it does not leave you with a sink full of dishes.

1 cored pineapple

12 tbsp (180 mL) packed light brown sugar 1 pkg (450 g) PC Butter Puff Pastry, thawed 1 egg, lightly beaten

Icing sugar to decorate

Vanilla ice cream to serve

1. Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment.

2. Cut pineapple into 8 rings, about 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. (If there is any left, save for another use.)

3. On one prepared sheet, lay down four circles of 1 tbsp (15 mL) brown sugar the same size as pineapple rings. Space them so they won’t touch when covered with 5-inch (12-cm) squares of pastry.

4. Lay down four pineapple rings on top of brown sugar circles. Sprinkle each pineapple ring with 1/2 tbsp (7 mL) brown sugar. Cut 1 sheet of puff pastry into four even squares. Place on top of pineapple rings. Press edges down with tines of fork. Brush with egg. Bake on middle shelf until deep golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes.

5. While first sheet is baking, prepare second sheet of tarts using remaining ingredient­s. Cover and refrigerat­e until oven is free.

6. Remove tarts from oven. Cool 5 minutes, then, using a spatula, carefully lift tarts off tray and flip onto a cooling rack. (Be careful not to touch any of the caramelize­d sugar on the tray.)

7. Serve warm or at room temperatur­e sprinkled with icing sugar and topped with a small scoop of ice cream.

Serves 8

WHAT TO SERVE

El Dorado 12 Year Old Rum

LCBO 60608, $54.95

This aged Demerara rum has notes of raisins, molasses, butterscot­ch and coconut, and beautifull­y matches the sweet pineapple flavour of the tarts.

ANTIPASTI CAKE

Cake salé is a savoury French quick bread served during the apéro hour. Here, the trendy loaf gets an Italian makeover with spicy salami, roasted peppers and sharp provolone cheese. If possible, bake it as close to serving as possible to fill your home with its mouthwater­ing aroma. Feel free to switch up the add-ins to whatever is in your fridge or pantry.

Softened butter, for pan

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour, sifted,

plus more for preparing pan

2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder

1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt

1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly ground pepper

4 large eggs, at room temperatur­e

3/4 tsp (4 mL) finely chopped rosemary

1/2 cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil

3/4 cup (175 mL) whole milk

1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped drained

piquillo peppers

1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped spicy salami

1 cup (250 mL) coarsely grated

provolone piccante

1/4 cup (60 mL) finely sliced chives

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). Butter a 5 x 9-inch (12 x 23-cm) metal loaf pan, then dust with flour, tapping out excess. Line bottom with parchment paper.

2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Set aside. In another bowl, whisk together eggs and rosemary. Gradually whisk in oil, then milk, until combined. Add wet to dry and mix with spatula until almost combined. Fold in peppers, salami, provolone and chives until just combined—be careful not to overmix. Transfer batter to prepared pan and smooth out top.

3. Bake on middle rack, rotating pan at halfway point, until a wooden skewer inserted in centre comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire cooling rack. Cool 15 minutes. Carefully turn out loaf onto rack. Remove and discard parchment paper. Serve warm or at room temperatur­e. (Antipasti cake is best eaten on the day it’s made, but it will keep at room temperatur­e, covered tightly in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days.)

Serves 8 to 10

WHAT TO SERVE

Luccarelli Negroamaro Puglia IGT

LCBO 380972, $11.95

Plush and plummy with licorice, dark cherry, nutmeg and prune flavours, this Negroamaro stands up to the spice of the peppers and the salami.

FISH & CHIP WAFFLE WITH PEA SHOOTS & TARTAR SAUCE

Fish and chips get a new look with baked salmon on a crispy waffle made from frozen french fries. The accompanyi­ng tartar sauce is lightened with sour cream and punched up with tart cornichons. The waffles are also delicious made with 1 cup (250 mL) coarsely grated Swiss or cheddar instead of egg— they’ll take a few minutes less to cook.

TARTAR SAUCE

1 tbsp + 1 tsp (15 + 5 mL) minced shallot

1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup (125 mL) mayonnaise

1/2 cup (125 mL) sour cream

1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped cornichons 1 tbsp (15 mL) capers, rinsed, finely chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped dill or parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

FISH AND WAFFLES

4 skinless fillets salmon, about 6 oz (170 g) each Salt to taste

Olive oil for brushing

Freshly ground pepper to taste

5 1/3 cups (1.33 L) packed thawed frozen shoestring fries, about 500 g, cut into

1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) lengths

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Pea shoots for serving

1. For the tartar sauce, place shallots and lemon juice in a medium mixing bowl. Let stand 15 minutes. Stir in rest of ingredient­s. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerat­e up to 5 days.

2. Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Preheat four-slice waffle maker on high.

3. Place salmon on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Season with salt and let stand for 10 minutes. Lightly brush with oil and season with pepper.

4. Bake on middle rack until slightly underdone—depending on the thickness, anywhere from 10 to 13 minutes. (To check for doneness, insert tip of a paring knife into thickest part and hold for 3 seconds. If knife tip comes out warm, the salmon is ready. If it’s still cool or barely warm, return to oven.)

5. While salmon is baking, mix fries and egg in large mixing bowl until fries are well coated. Divide among waffle moulds, close and cook until nicely browned and crispy, 9 to 12 minutes. Season with salt.

6. To serve, carefully transfer waffles to four dinner plates. Top with a handful of pea shoots then salmon. Dollop each piece of salmon with a generous amount of tartar sauce.

Serve immediatel­y with more tartar sauce on the side.

Serves 4 WHAT TO SERVE

Henry of Pelham Chardonnay VQA

LCBO 291211, $15.95

A classic match, the apple and pear notes in the wine pair seamlessly with the fish. The Chardonnay’s tangy acidity balances the rich sauce.

CHOPPED PAN BAGNAT

All the ingredient­s of the classic pan bagnat sandwich are chopped up, tossed with a sharp vinaigrett­e and piled high on crusty rolls. A quick condiment of mayonnaise, cooked egg yolks and basil keeps the bread from getting soggy. We dare say this Niçoise remix is better than the original.

VINAIGRETT­E

1 tbsp (15 mL) Dijon mustard

1/4 tsp (1 mL) finely grated garlic

3 tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar

1/4 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil

1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

SANDWICHES

4 hardboiled eggs, peeled

6 tbsp (90 mL) mayonnaise

3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 cup (125 mL) diced red onion

2 cups (500 mL) chopped romaine hearts 2 cups (500 mL) diced seeded tomato

1 cup (250 mL) chopped radishes

3/4 cup (175 mL) chopped pitted black olives 2 jars (190 g each) Italian tuna in oil,

drained

4 submarine rolls, each about

9 inches (23 cm) long

1. For the vinaigrett­e, whisk Dijon, garlic and vinegar in a medium mixing bowl until combined. Slowly whisk in oils until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerat­e up to 1 week.

2. For the sandwiches, halve eggs lengthwise. Remove yolks and place in small bowl. Mash yolks with fork and stir in mayo, basil, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerat­e until ready to use. Chop whites and set aside.

3. To make filling, place onion in a small bowl, cover with cold water and let stand 5 minutes (this will help soften the raw onion flavour). Drain, pat dry with paper towel and place in a large mixing bowl with romaine, tomato, radishes, olives and reserved egg whites. Season with salt and pepper. Add enough vinaigrett­e to coat lightly, saving rest for another use. Gently mix. Break tuna into flakes, add to bowl and very gently mix to combine.

4. Split rolls lengthwise and slather both sides with mayo mixture. Divide salad mixture between rolls. Cut in half and serve.

Serves 4 to 6

WHAT TO SERVE

Miraval Rosé

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 342584, $26.95

Pan Bagnat is a salad Niçoise sandwich. The wine’s bright citrus, rhubarb and red berry fruit with a hint of brine balance the tuna, olive and raw vegetable flavours perfectly.

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