Shift Into Spring SARDINES & BUTTER-FRIED SALTINES

SHRIMP & RICE PAPER SALAD CUPS

You probably have a half-used package of rice paper rounds in the back of your cupboard (and for good reason… they seem to last indefinitely when wrapped well in plastic). Instead of going to all the effort of making salad rolls, break them up and soak them in a punchy dressing to turn them into a quick salad—it’s a tried-and-true Vietnamese cooking shortcut. Purchase cooked frozen shrimp in whatever size you like. You’ll need two to three boat-shaped salad leaves per person or, if using Little Gem leaves, four per person.

3 Campari tomatoes

3 tbsp (45 mL) fish sauce

3 tbsp (45 mL) fresh lime juice

1 tbsp (15 mL) packed light or dark

brown sugar

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 Thai chili, finely chopped

6 rice paper rounds

6 oz (170 g) frozen cooked shrimp,

thawed and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup (60 mL) thinly sliced red onion

1 cup (250 mL) loosely packed basil leaves,

torn if large

3 tbsp (45 mL) salted roasted peanuts,

chopped

Romaine, bibb or Little Gem lettuce leaves

to serve

1. Cut tomatoes in half. Working with one half at a time, coarsely grate flesh against a box grater set over a large bowl. Discard skin and repeat with remaining tomato halves. Add fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, garlic and chili. Stir to dissolve sugar.

2. Using a pair of scissors, cut rice paper into 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) squares. Add to dressing and give them a good toss. Let stand 2 to 3 minutes or until rice paper has softened.

3. Add shrimp, onion and basil. Toss again and tip out onto a serving platter. Top with peanuts and arrange lettuce around platter to serve. Let diners serve themselves by spooning salad onto lettuce leaves.

Serves 4 Saltines are good, but butter-fried saltines are even better. Purchase tinned sardines in olive oil without any additional flavourings or addins—the flavourful crème fraîche, lemon confit and rich saltines bring all you need to the party.

1 small lemon

1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil

Salt

1/4 tsp (1 mL) sugar

1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter

12 saltines

1/2 cup (125 mL) crème fraîche

1 small shallot, finely chopped

2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped dill, plus extra

for garnishing

1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) drained prepared horseradish Freshly ground black pepper

1 can (106 to 135 g) sardines packed in olive oil,

drained

1. Trim end of lemon and cut 3 slices a scant 1/8-inch (3-mm) thick (keep what remains of lemon for another use). Arrange slices in single layer in a small pot along with olive oil. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and the sugar. Set over low heat and cook 15 to 20 minutes or until skin is tender. Let cool to room temperature, remove from oil and cut into quarters (save the flavourful oil for use in a salad dressing, if you like).

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, melt butter over medium-low. Add saltines in a single layer and cook until deeply golden all over, about 3 minutes per side. Remove to a paper towel–lined plate and sprinkle with a little salt while warm.

3. Stir together crème fraîche, shallot, dill and horseradish. Season to taste with salt and a few grindings of pepper.

4. To assemble, spread each cracker with an equal amount of crème fraîche mixture, fish and a single lemon quarter. Garnish with a dill sprig, if you’re feeling fancy.

Makes 12

PEPPERONI RAGÙ & FRIED POLENTA

A good ragù usually takes a half-day of bubbling away to concentrate flavours, but you’re hungry and don’t have time for that. Layering lots of punchy fennel seed, pepperoni and toasty fried Parm, one on top of the other, in a killer tomato sauce is the answer. You can find prepared polenta in tubes at most grocery stores.

PEPPERONI RAGÙ

2 tsp (10 mL) fennel seed

1/2 sweet onion, peeled with root end intact 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

5 cloves garlic, chopped

3 oz (85 g) pepperoni, finely chopped

1/4 cup (60 mL) finely grated Parmesan

8 oz (225 g) medium ground pork

1/2 cup (125 mL) milk

1 can (398 mL) chopped or crushed tomatoes,

or tomato polpa

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tube (1 kg) prepared traditional polenta Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tbsp (60 mL) olive oil, divided, plus more

as needed

3/4 cup (175 mL) ricotta

2 tsp (10 mL) oil-preserved Calabrian

chopped chilies

1. For the ragù, crush fennel seeds in a mortar and pestle or by using the side of a chef’s knife. Grate the onion coarsely using a box grater set over a bowl. Set both aside.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Add garlic and fry until golden, about 1 minute. Add onion and its juices and fry until dry but not browned. Stir in the pepperoni, Parmesan and fennel seed. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until mixture is sticky and cheese smells toasty, about 5 minutes.

3. Crumble pork overtop and stir to combine. Fry until no longer pink, breaking up meat with a fork as you go.

4. Pour milk over, add canned tomato, and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Stir and bring to a boil. Reduce to low, cover and simmer 40 minutes or until very thick. Keep warm.

5. Meanwhile, using a serrated knife, cut polenta into 10 equal-size disks. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high. Fry polenta, working in batches and refreshing oil if necessary, 4 to 5 minutes per side or until golden. Remove to a platter.