FRESH IDEAS I FOOD
Savour the old but also try something new this spring.
I DON’T KNOW about you, but by the time the calendar changes to May, I’ve had my fill of winter squash and hearty stews. That’s why I’m sure to run to our local markets, on the hunt for the season’s first pickings.
Local asparagus, rhubarb and other spring treats are the perfect tonic to help awaken your taste buds from hibernation. ARUGULA
Also known as rocket, the dog days of summer can turn arugula unpleasantly bitter, so spring is a great opportunity to work more of this spicy green into your diet. The small, younger leaves are often the mildest.
Arugula is even more appetizing when you consider that it is low in calories yet abundant in vitamin K and lutein, an antioxidant known to bolster eye health.
Arugula can add a burst of flavour to quiches, pizza, pasta, salads, scrambled eggs, wraps and vibrant greens sauces for steak. Store tightly wrapped in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to three days. RHUBARB
If the frigid weather that was the norm of this past winter had you seeing red, make sure to load up on those heroic red rhubarb stalks for a cherished taste of spring.
Although botanically a vegetable, this member of the buckwheat family is often used as a fruit and is a significant source of vitamin C, vitamin K and potassium.
From pies to jam to compotes, rhubarb is often prepared with sugar to temper its sourness. But rhubarb can also be blanched, chopped and worked into salsas and salads for a hit of tang. SORREL
Likely to flourish despite a grower’s neglect, the flavour of this relative to rhubarb is not what you might expect from a leafy green: tart and refreshingly lemony.
Sorrel’s signature lemonade-in-a-leaf taste hails from its high levels of oxalic acid. Look for leaves that are bright green and lively.
It is very delicate, so sorrel is best consumed within a day or two of purchasing. Try it as a bright addition to salad greens, grain or lentil salads, sandwiches and omelettes.
Combine cooked penne with sorrel, sliced sun-dried tomatoes, slivered almonds and walnut oil. The leaves’ signature tang wanes when cooked, making them a delightful addition to soups and sauces. RAMPS
On any given sunny spring day, you might
find me riding a mountain bike trail — all the while dreaming about being on soil-stained knees foraging for much beloved ramps. Also known as wild leeks, ramps are a wild onion native to North America with a lively garlicky flavour. Both the small white bulbs and broad verdant leaves are edible. They lend a wonderful pungent taste to soups, pestos, cornbread, egg dishes and potato dishes. A bunch of whole ramps is a revelation when tossed on the grill where they pick up a bit of smoky char. I’ve even been known to pickle a bunch to keep me in ramp heaven well into the summer. RADISHES
Radishes’ main nutritional highlight is the abundance of vitamin C, a potent age-avenging antioxidant. Beyond salads, the tempered peppery heat of radish can vivify anything from sandwiches to soups and salsas. Pickled radishes are truly worth fawning over. And don’t overlook those edible (and nutrient-packed) green tops, which can be added to pesto, salads and other recipes calling for greens. In other words, radish is the perfect two-for-one vegetable. DANDELION GREENS One person’s weed-filled lawn might be another person’s salad bar. Whether you buy dandelion greens at the market or forage for them from your front lawn — do so when they’re still young and tender, before they have flowered — you’ll benefit from their surprising range of nutrients, which include vitamin K, vitamin C, vitamin A and calcium.
Recognizable by the leaves’ jagged edges, dandelion greens are bitter-tasting when raw, but a vinaigrette dressing can soften their bitterness when served raw in salads. Or gently wilt a bunch in a sauté pan. Also consider making dandelion green pesto and toss with pasta or serving atop burgers. ASPARAGUS
You can now find asparagus in stores year round (gracias, Peru), but the ‘‘real’’ stalks grown in local soil have unsurpassed flavour and texture. The upshot is that you should eat as much of this quintessential spring vegetable as you can before it’s replaced by warm weather produce.
Asparagus’ earthy goodness is only upstaged by its nutritional might, which includes laudable amounts of folate – a B vitamin with cancer-fighting efficacy.
Lightly grilled, steamed, sautéed, roasted or stir-fried, the spears shine when prepared simply and quickly, letting the delicate grassy flavour shine through. You can also enjoy asparagus raw by shaving it ever-so thinly into salads or toss the ribbons with olive oil, Parmesan cheese and a whisper of coarse salt. >>
ASPARAGUS SALAD WITH SOFT-COOKED EGG
Makes 4 servings
6 large eggs 1 bunch asparagus, woody ends trimmed,
chopped into 1-inch pieces 1/3 cup (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons (30 ml) white wine vinegar 1 shallot, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 2 teaspoons (2 ml) Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon (5 ml) lemon zest ¼ teaspoon (1 ml) salt ¼ teaspoon (1 ml) black pepper 6 cups arugula or dandelion greens 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved 1/3 cup (75 ml) flat-leaf parsley 1/3 cup (75 ml) sliced almonds 1/3 cup (75 ml) freshly grated Parmesan
cheese
1. Add water to a large saucepan to a depth of about three inches; bring to a boil. Gently lower eggs into water; boil seven minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer eggs to an ice bath and let cool completely, about five minutes. Softly tap eggs against counter to break shell and gently peel. Cut eggs in half lengthwise, wiping knife clean between slicing each egg. The yolk should have a jellied consistency.
2. Meanwhile, heat a small amount of oil in a large skittle over medium heat. Add asparagus and cook until tender, about four to five minutes, stirring often. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, white wine vinegar, shallot, garlic, mustard, lemon zest, salt and black pepper. 3. Divide among serving plates: arugula or dandelion greens, tomatoes, parsley and almonds. Top with
egg halves and Parmesan.
>> FIDDLEHEADS
The tightly coiled fronds of the prized ostrich fern, better known as fiddleheads, are an ultra-seasonal delight not to be missed. Whimsical fiddleheads have a crisp texture with a flavour that wanders somewhere between asparagus and broccoli.
Once home, rinse them to remove any grit, snip off the brown ends leaving one to two inches of stem attached, and place in a bowl of water with some lemon juice in the refrigerator where they’ll last a couple of weeks with regular water changes.
From stir-fries to frittatas to pizza, you can use fiddleheads in almost any recipe calling for asparagus. For a simple preparation that lets their wonderful texture and taste shine though, sauté for a few minutes with garlic and olive oil then finish with a whisper of lemon juice. Fiddleheads freeze well, so consider buying a bunch when you can, giving them a quick blanch and storing in the freezer in an airtight bag. AVOCADO TOAST WITH PICKLED RADISH
Above photo: The avocado mash makes a creamy spread that gently naps the crisp vegetables on these open-faced sandwiches.
Makes 4 Servings 1 ½ cups (375 ml) thinly sliced radishes ½ cup (125 ml) rice vinegar 1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar 2 teaspoon (10 ml) sea salt 1 ripe avocado Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 shallot, minced ¼ teaspoon (1 ml) black pepper 4 thick slices rye bread, preferably toasted ½ English cucumber, thinly sliced ¼ cup (60 ml) chopped fresh basil or parsley
1. Place radish slices in a clean jar. Combine rice wine vinegar, sugar, salt and 2/3 cup (150 ml) water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring until sugar and salt has dissolved. Pour over radishes, cover and chill for at least two hours.
2. In a small bowl, mash avocado flesh with a fork and stir in shallot, lemon juice and black pepper. Spread avocado on rye bread and top with cucumber, pickled radish and basil or parsley. LENTIL RHUBARB STEW
Below left photo: Rhubarb is often used in sweet applications, but as it breaks down during cooking, it infuses this one-pot wonder with a subtle tart flavour that is a pleasant counterpoint to the earthy personality of lentils.
Because they hold their shape and texture, black lentils are superb here, but you can also use French green lentils. If you have some on hand, a sprinkling of preserved lemon is a great garnish option as well.
Makes 4 servings 2 teaspoons (10 ml) canola oil or grapeseed oil 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon (15 ml) minced fresh ginger 1 teaspoon (5 ml) cumin powder ¾ teaspoon (4 ml) turmeric powder ½ teaspoon (2 ml) sea salt ¼ teaspoon (1 ml) black pepper 2 cups (500 ml) chopped rhubarb ¾ cup (185 ml) black (beluga) lentils, rinsed 1/3 cup (75 ml) fresh mint, chopped 1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt
1. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add shallots, bell pepper, carrot, jalapeno, garlic and ginger. Cook for three minutes, stirring often. Add cumin, turmeric, salt and black pepper; cook one minute. Stir in rhubarb and cook two minutes, stirring often. 2. Add lentils to the pot along with three cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer covered for 30 minutes, or until lentils are tender.
3. Serve lentil mixture topped with yogurt and mint.