2.

Quit While You’re Ahead

“I am so close to bleeding, but just one more try.” This statement is normally followed by another try and then bleeding. Once you cut through that last l ayer of skin, your chances of sending decrease drastically, no matter how many hero stories you’ve heard about the Dawn Wall and try-to-the-death tactics. Taping bloody finger tips can ease the pain, but it decreases friction and the ability to hang on, especially on climbs at your limit. Your performance will be affected until the cut heals which can take days or even weeks. Listen to what you’re saying and tape the fingers most affected by the sharp holds when your skin is fresh, before you put in a full day of attempts. This offers two benefits. First, you practice the hard section with a diminished grip because of the tape. This means when you do take it off, you’ll feel stronger on those holds. Second, your skin will be fresh and the crux will feel easier when you’re rested and ready to remove the tape and put it all together in one try. climb consume me entirely? From warm-up, to sending attempts, to working burns. It’s easy to fall into the routine of a singular focus when projecting and it seems like the clearest direction to pursue as you get closer and closer to the send. It’s a trap. You’ll undo your training and get weaker physically. And worse than that, it will ruin your mental composure.

Keep a variety of routes in your climbing day. Aim to complete new routes of lesser difficulty or pick an alternative challenge like climbing in a different style such as crack climbing. These options are crucial fuel for maintaining motivation and helping fend off that mean inner voice that says “you suck” when you’re already beaten, exhausted and bleeding.