Know Be­fore You Go


“It’s too hot to climb.” “I can’t feel my fin­gers be­cause it’s so cold out.” Part of project se­lec­tion is find­ing favourable con­di­tions, such as wall ori­en­ta­tion, which can be ei­ther shady or warm de­pend­ing on what you work best in. If it’s in the sun by 11 a.m. and you can’t take the heat, wake up early. Get up at 5 a.m., make your team break­fast. Trust me, this will help take their early-morn­ing-whileon-a-va­ca­tion-edge off and pro­mote re­ceiv­ing a safe be­lay. Walk in and warm up in the dark. Two qual­ity tries af­ter warm-ups will usu­ally give you all the home­work you need.

Con­trol­ling the tem­per­a­ture has a sec­ond larger con­sid­er­a­tion you must keep in mind. The sea­son you pick to at­tempt your project has a di­rect ef­fect on suc­cess. Un­for­tu­nately, you can’t con­trol for rain, but you can strate­gize and pre­pare your­self men­tally for the time of year you de­cide to project. In the fall, the con­di­tions will only get cooler and fric­tion will im­prove un­til progress lit­er­ally freezes up. In the spring, ev­ery month, the tem­per­a­ture in­creases un­til you sweat so much that the crux holds be­come im­pos­si­ble. Where they once of­fered you a dif­fi­cult path up­wards they now of­fer a cu­ri­ous visual dilemma. “I can see them, but I can no longer pull down on them. They were holds just last week.”

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