Belay Devices

From climbing gyms to crags, belaying is one of the most important skills for a climber. Having the right tool for the job can make the difference between an unsafe day and a successful one. Be sure to get proper instruction on how to use your device from an experienced climber or guide.

Black Diamond

ATC Pilot $60

The atc Pilot provides some extra locking up strength compared to other tubular devices, but like all hybrids, you should keep a brake hand on. This device excels for top roping and lowering scenarios at crags and gyms. It only has room for one strand, so only works for single pitch routes. It’s relatively cheap to buy, so it’s used widely by climbing programs and guides. It’s lighter than other devices, so if you’re hiking into a remote crag, consider having this on your harness as opposed to a fully mechanical device.

Mammut

Smart 2.0 $38

Mammut redesigned the passive locking Smart and released the Smart 2.0 in 2018. It offers the security of an assisted braking device at a lower cost. Plus it’s lightweight and very compact, but is only for single-strand use. Like ally hybrid devices, there’s a bit of a learning curve to prevent misuse. We love it for single-pitch lead belays and it works well with thinner ropes. It handles nicer than the Smart Alpine, which you can use two strands with.

Mammut

Smart Alpine $45

The Mammut Smart Alpine is one of the more widely used passive assisted locking devices, also known as “hybrids.” The braking mechanism is based on the tube design but gives a stronger initial bite thanks to its design. It can sometimes catch a fall by itself, sometimes even a resting climber’s weight can pull rope through. That why you mush always use a brake hand. This is an affordable, lightweight alternative that takes a little extra time to learn how to use properly. Save this for alpine climbs, but practice at a crag first.

Camp

Matik $250

The Camp Matik is an active-assisted braking device that costs more than similar devices, but has some nice features. The friction surfaces are cast stainless steel, which makes it one of the most durable belay devices ever made. It has a gradual camming action that produces a dynamic catch and can reduce impact forces up to 40 per cent. The lowering mechanism has an anti-panic system that will brake if control is lost. The Matik is a perfect choice for inexperienced belayers or crag climbers looking for more security. This is built for single pitch cragging and in the gym.

Petzl

Grigri $150

The Petzl Grigri is an active assisted braking device that many consider the gold standard for sport climbing. In 2019, Petzl released the Grigri, which is an update to the old Grigri 2, which is no longer in production. It has a few new features, like the spring in the cam is tighter which allows for easier paying out of rope. It can be used with ropes as thin as 8.5 mm. The Grigri remains our favorite belay device for experienced climbers and is one of the highest scorers in our comparison rating scale. This device is ideal for use while cragging, either sport or trad, or at the gym. It works great for projecting harder routes due to the effortless lock off and is likewise the top choice for top-rope belaying for the same reason.

Edelrid

Eddy $162

The Edelrid Eddy has been around for a few years and is a favourite for some climbers. It’s a little heavier than other mechanical devices and costs more. It’s much smoother with thick ropes than comparable devices, and it features an anti-panic lowering mechanism that stops the rope if the belayer pulls the handle too hard. You can also pull a lot of rope through the Eddy quickly for the lead climber, but too fast and you’ll trigger the break. It’s a good option for top-roping at the crag or gym.

Trango

Vergo $140

The Trango Vergo is similar to the Grigri, but doesn’t have a spring-loaded cam to feed slack. Feeding slack depends on the angle of the rope running through the device and the tension being applied. It’s best used at the crag or at the gym. It can be used with ropes of 8.9 mm up to 11 mm. It has a steep learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, this is one of the best crag devices out there.

Wild Country

Revo $180

The Wild Country Revo is a big belay device that is easy to use and performs well. The Revo works has an emergency backup that locks up the device should the belay fail. The emergency backup requires no different techniques, but adds security to the belay and works extremely well. It’s great for experienced and beginner climbers and excels at single pitch climbing at the crag or gym. It’s worth the extra money for the added security, especially for new climbers.

Edelrid

Giga Jul $60

The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new version of the Mega Jul. It combines standard tube-style use, assisted braking and auto-block for the ultimate device. It’s great for rappels, belaying a second and lead belaying on single and mutli-pitch climbs. Switching between modes is as easy as flipping a slider from one side to the other and loading the rope in the opposite direction. This is a top choice for climbers heading up multi-pitch projects where big falls might take place. It’s our favourite all-in-one belay device for long climbs.

Petzl

Reverso $35

The Reverso is a lightweight multipurpose belay/rappel device that can be used to belay seconds when on a multi-pitch. The rope slots allow the rope to glide smoothly and reduces wear. It fits half ropes over 7.1 mm, twins over 6.9 mm and singles 8.5 mm and up. The V-shaped channels increase friction for thinner ropes, and increase holding power in autoblock mode. The updated version is lighter and stronger. For nearly two decades, this has been a go-to of ours for multi-pitch climbing and it will continue to be just that.

Black Diamond

ATC Guide $35

The atc Guide is one of the most versatile belay/rappel devices available today is considered the gold standard for alpine climbing. The guide-mode lets you belay up one or two climbers. There are a number of friction modes and grooved sides that provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. The body is hot forged aluminum so it’s durable and strong. It has an oval anchor hole that feeds rope easily when in guide mode. The cable holds its shape and are nice and burly.

Black Diamond

ATC XP $27

The Black Diamond atc XP is one of the best manual belay devices on the market. The classic tube shape has a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. The grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided, original atc. It’s durable and requires less hand power to lock off. It’s as much at home on the harness of experienced climbers as it is on new climbers. It’s simple, affordable, compact and most importantly very reliable.—gripped