News Flash
New Brunswick Aid Freed
New Brunswick climbers Peter and Jon Adamson have freed Orpheus, a wildlooking line at the Amphitheatre, Welsford. It was first climbed in 2011 by Chris Norfolk and Erick Burley using some bolts and a lot of aid trickery. No grade was suggested, but it’s difficult.
New Mega 5.12 Near Nordegg
Zardoz is a new six-pitch 5.12c in the Canadian Rockies. Rhys Beaudry and Konstantin Stoletov made the first free ascent in July 2020. “It’s probably one of the most scenic multi-pitch climbs in Alberta,” said Stoletov.
Joe Skopec Repeats Lion’s Head Express 5.14b
Ontario’s strong Joe Skopec made a rare repeat of Lion’s Head Express at Lion’s Head in mid-august. The following day he made a quick send of American Dream 5.13d.
The Fame Monster
An old Chris Kalous project in the Ghost was freed by Juan Henriquez, Verginie Lavoie and Raphael Slawinski this summer. It goes at 5.12- over 190 metres and five pitches. The pitches go 5.4, 5.9, 5.11+, 5.12- and 5.11+.
The Path 5.14R Trad Sent
The Path is one of Canada’s most famous pitches, and now three climbers can add their names to the list of sends. Danny Poceta, Dexter Bateman, Nick Rochacewich and Simon Yamamoto all climbed the 5.14a trad line this summer. A hold broke earlier this season, but was glued back on in the original spot by Rochacewich.
Andrew Wexler Sends Jason Lives
The 5.13d sport route Jason Lives at Lake Louise has been climbed countless times, but mountain guide Andrew Wexler grabbed his first tick this summer. He said: “I wanted to climb this since moving to the valley 15 years ago. It felt impossible then and only a little more possible now.”
Three New Multi-pitch Rundle Routes
David Smart and Brandon Pullan added three new routes to the north side of Mount Rundle in August: House Mountain 5.7, seven pitches; Yonge Street 5.8, 14 pitches and Georgetown 5.8, 14 pitches. For more, see ‘Notes from the Top’ on p.56.
Becca Frangos Sends 5.14b
At the time of print, Becca Frangos (cover) sent her first 5.14b with asdato at Horne Lake, B.c.—gripped