Becca Frangos

Becca Frangos

In August, Becca Frangos climbed her first 5.14a, Leviathan. The Canadian competition champion has racked up a respectable send list over the past few years, including many classic hard sport routes. We touched base with her before she moved back to Victoria, B.C., after spending the covid-19 lockdown with her family in Canmore.

1 How did it feel sending your first 5.14a?

Amazing. It’s been on the list as something I’ve wanted to accomplish for a while. Leviathan is by no means on the lower end of the grade range either, so it gives me motivation to continue to push myself. I know I’m still capable of climbing harder.

2 Why did you choose Leviathan?

I really wanted to challenge myself both physically and mentally. It’s been a route I’ve wanted to try since I first started climbing at Acephale in my teens, but in the past, I was always too intimidated to get on it. This summer, I had a newfound sense of confidence and had a great crew (crushers Dan Beland and Mike Doyle) to work on it with, so right from the start, I was motivated.

3 Can you walk us through the beta you used?

The crux begins on two pockets with your hands and a kneebar slotted into a mini roof below. The beta that basically everyone uses from there is right hand to a tooth hold, then the left foot comes really far left to a spike and you do a really deep drop knee. From there, grab a pitiful intermediate crimp before a big bump to quite a good pinchy ledge. I realized this was not going to work for me for a few reasons, so from the kneebar rest I trended out right to a decent two-pad edge.

I then grab that tooth hold with my left hand, cut my feet swing them back onto the two pockety holds, I cross right hand to kind of a pinchy crack in the rock and crimp it as hard as I can. I then move my left foot to the spike get a right scummy toehook directly below me, come into the intermediate crimp with my left hand then do the same bump move to the good ledge. Although it ended up being quite a few more moves than the original beta, it worked well for me because it required fewer low-percentage big moves.

4 Can you describe climbing at Acephale for those who’ve never been?

Bouldering on a rope sums it up pretty well. I call it “aceflail” for a reason.

5 Has the cancellation of comps changed your training?

I wouldn’t say things have changed a ton in terms of what I am doing specifically. It’s more the amount of time I spend in the gym that actually varies. Usually when I am in full prep mode for comps I’ll be climbing five days per week, strength training two days per week and resting one day, whereas when I know I am getting close to sending a route or I am spending really big exhausting days outside working out moves on a project I’m usually only climbing in the gym two days per week to accommodate for that, otherwise I’m too tired to have productive days on rock. It’s actually been a nice break for my body and mind to have a bit less volume than I’m used to and somewhat less structure/rigidity to the daily plan.

6 What was one of your favourite comps ever and why?

The Pan American Championships in L.A. in March 2020.

Not only did I put in the best performance of my climbing career so far, but I was able to witness Alannah Yip achieve her lifelong dream of qualifying for the Olympics alongside our teammate Sean Mccoll, which was so special. That event definitely lit a fire in me and I have my sights set on qualifying for the Paris 2024 Olympics.

7 Vancouver Island has some classic 5.14s. Are you planning on trying any?

My focus now that I’m back in Victoria is climbing at Horne Lake. I have lots of climbs I’d like to try and am currently working on as dato which is a variation which splits right off the original adato line up the center of the Amphitheatre.

Ed. Shortly after the interview Frangos sent ASDATO 5.14b

8 What do the next few months look like for your climbing life?

I’ll be focusing on outdoor climbing into the early months of the fall basically until the rock gets too wet. With no competitions in the immediate future I’ve been finding outdoor projecting a great way to keep up my motivation in the absence of having current competition goals. As well, I am getting back into a bit more of a structured training routine in the gym a few days per week and have started back up with my strength and conditioning lifting weights.

9 Will you be returning to the Rockies next summer for more Acephale?

It will depend on the state of the world by next summer. Hopefully there is a World Cup season in 2021 and I’ll be back to competing but I’d also love to spend some time on rock again in the valley. We will just have to wait and see.

10 What’s your advice to young climbers hoping to send 5.14 one day?

When you start to truly believe in yourself it opens up a world of possibilities. Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there and try things that are out of your comfort zone. It may seem daunting and perhaps even discouraging at times, but ultimately it will make you so much stronger mentally.—gripped