Rich colours dom­i­nate the run­way at Paris Fash­ion Week

Medicine Hat News - - FASHION - THOMAS ADAM­SON

PARIS Soirees merged from night to day as de­sign houses Nina Ricci and Issey Miyake showed off colour-rich cre­ations in Fri­day’s in­stall­ment of celebrity-filled Paris Fash­ion Week.

Here are some high­lights of the spring-sum­mer 2018 ready-to-wear shows.

NINA RICCI’S MIL­I­TARIS­TIC SPRING

Amer­i­can model and ac­tress Emily Rata­jkowski posed ahead of the Nina Ricci show in a checked brown 70s-style suit taken from its fall col­lec­tion. But for spring, de­signer Guil­laume Henry chan­neled suits of a dif­fer­ent na­ture: the mil­i­tary.

It was a theme that spoke to the show’s venue: the former French mil­i­tary hos­pi­tal, the grand Ho­tel des In­valides, which is now home to France’s Army Mu­seum.

A mil­i­tary jacket in grey with vo­lu­mi­nous sleeves opened the show, sport­ing epaulets, large but­tons and ex­ag­ger­ated pock­ets. Jodh­purs mixed with large vi­sor hats, rem­i­nis­cent of the French Le­gion. Fring­ing that evoked uni­form de­tail came in large silken swathes across a soft an­kle-length gown with a plung­ing decol­lete.

One of the col­lec­tion’s best looks — an over­size golden yel­low plume coat — was styled on a model with a large colonel’s feather point­ing up from a head piece.

The col­lec­tion got more fem­i­nine as it pro­gressed — and in­cluded a flame red harem-style gown.

But Henry’s de­tail-rich clothes some­times could have ben­e­fited from a sim­pler, more spring-in­fused, ap­proach. ___ ISSEY MIYAKE’S ICE­LANDIC PO­ETRY

The great mys­ter­ies of na­ture and Ice­land were touch­stones for Issey Miyake in its Paris show.

Loose sil­hou­ettes — the dis­play’s prin­ci­ple style — hung from the shoul­der fea­tur­ing hazy im­ages of the Ice­landic land­scape. The blurred mo­tifs were cre­ated by bak­ing printed glue on the fab­ric, seal­ing the fash­ion house’s rep­u­ta­tion for cut­tingedge clothes-mak­ing tech­niques.

Else­where, fab­ric pan­els of col­or­ful checks folded hap­haz­ardly across the torso used a brown hue taken from a nat­u­ral mud pig­ment. To end the show, squares were pieced to­gether, cre­at­ing a dark, geo­met­ric fab­ric that evoked light re­flect­ing on vol­canic Ice­landic rocks.

“Great clefts in a harsh land­scape, ig­neous rock covered in moss, gleam­ing in the rays of the sun, and crys­tal­clear glaciers stretch­ing as far as the eye can see,” said the pro­gram notes. ___ CHRIS­TIAN WIJNANTS’ MID­DLE EAST

It was prints galore for Chris­tian Wijnants as his guests were treated to the silks and dec­o­ra­tions of the Ot­toman Em­pire and Per­sia.

The tal­ented Bel­gian de­signer evoked the flo­ral mo­tif found on fine Ot­toman and Per­sian ce­ram­ics — that also adorns manuscripts and minia­tures — in his di­aphanous ar­ray of flut­tery, lightly-col­ored printed silken gowns.

There was great thought be­hind the de­cep­tively-sim­ple col­lec­tion.

A loose blue em­broi­dered coat had a shim­mery fin­ish like the glaze on pot­tery. And a beau­ti­ful jade green dress had an Eastern feel with its swirling mul­ti­tudi­nous lay­ers and long fine neck scarf.

At sev­eral points, an Ara­bic text print covered the bust. Flashes of the West — like denim dun­ga­rees — added a fun con­trast. ___ THE ART OF THE IN­VI­TA­TION

The age of email doesn’t seem to have left a mark on the fash­ion in­dus­try’s an­ti­quated sys­tem of in­vi­ta­tions.

Sea­son af­ter sea­son, gaso­line-guz­zling couri­ers criss­cross Paris to per­son­ally de­liver the ever-elab­o­rate, of­ten hand-made, show in­vites to fash­ion in­sid­ers.

Top houses vie for the fun­ni­est or most imag­i­na­tive in­vite.

For her de­but in­vi­ta­tion at Chloe, Nat­acha Ram­say-Levi sent out a box of matches — per­haps hop­ing it might give crit­ics a spark. Bal­main’s was a clunky, golden tro­phy that was im­prac­ti­cally heavy. And lit­tle­known house Sir­loin sent in­vi­tees an ac­tual post­card of the Eif­fel Tower.

In a tie for the best in­vi­ta­tions were Stella McCart­ney and Rick Owens.

While Owens pro­duced a beau­ti­fully wear­able foulard with a print of a fu­tur­ist sculp­ture, eco­log­i­cally-minded McCart­ney’s de­tails were writ­ten on a gi­ant tubu­lar wad of 20 “Trash­ion Bags” — “made of 100% re­cy­cled lin­ear low den­sity poly­eth­yl­ene.” ___ BAL­MAIN X L’OREAL PARTY

Posters pro­mot­ing Bal­main and L’Oreal’s new lip­stick are plas­tered all around Paris — so it’s lit­tle won­der that VIPs turned out aplenty for the lip­stick line launch party in the posh Boule­vard Saint Ger­main.

A youth­ful-look­ing Pamela An­der­son caused a stir at the red car­pet photo call in a striped glit­ter mini-dress and tou­sled hair. Singer Court­ney Love ar­rived in a trendy over­size dark glit­tery coat and an em­bel­lished, shim­mer­ing pas­tel gown.

Bal­main de­signer Olivier Rouste­ing posed for cam­eras along­side Brazil­ian soc­cer sen­sa­tion Ney­mar, who plays for French club Paris Saint Ger­main.

The col­lec­tion got more fem­i­nine as it pro­gressed — and in­cluded a flame red harem-style gown.

AP PHOTO/KAMIL ZIHNIOGLU

Model Kaia Ger­ber poses for pho­tog­ra­phers upon ar­rival at a party for Omega in Paris Fri­day.

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