WINES OF THE WEEK

It is rare that a wine’s quality does not reflect its price. However, there are exceptions. The wines of the week are reserved for those wines that show exceptional quality and outstanding value.

UNDER $16:

EVERYDAY DRINKING

Pure torque, pure tannat

Tannat 2008, Paso Cuello, Toscanini, Uruguay red, $10.95, SAQ # 10294866. Arguably the wine with the most pure torque that I have tasted for under $12. Dark fruits, slight meatiness, firm tannins. You get the full dimension of the tannat grape, best known as the grape behind the wines of Madiran. Serve at 18C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: rib roast, stronger-flavoured meats

$16-$20:

MID-PRICED MARVEL

Go Greek for oyster season

Vin de Pays de Cyclades 2011, Atlantis, Argyros, Greece white, $16.80, SAQ # 11097477. Assyrtiko cut with the indigenous athiri and aidani grapes. Last time I tasted this, I found it riper, more tropical, but here it’s back to its Santorini roots. A solid mineral streak — so lean, it’s almost drying. We are hitting prime oyster season, and this is the wine. Serve at 6-8C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, raw oysters

$20 AND UP:

FOR A TREAT

Dolcetto comes out of the oak

Dolcetto d’Alba 2010, Enzo Boglietti, Italy red, $20.20, SAQ # 10856726. I have been waiting for this wine to return home — to be a full-on, unabashed dolcetto again, rather than being weighed down by oak. This is great dolcetto — bright cherry and plum, grippy tannin, good acid and spice. The most underrated grape of Piedmont once again brings relatively inexpensive fun. Serve at 16 C. Drink now. Food pairing: apéritif, antipasti, pâtés