Try these complex whites to get a true taste of Soave

Veneto Igt 2013, San Vincenzo, Anselmi, Italy white, $17.50, SAQ #585422. Pineapple and white grapefruit dominate the aromatics, with a hint of honeydew melon and clover. Minerality is there, too, tucked away under the fruit. The sauvignon blanc in the blend is there, almost dominating the wine despite being less than 20 per cent of the mix. Not your typical Soave, but this is fun to drink. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, asparagus.

Soave Classico 2010, Monte Carbonare, Suavia, Italy white, $19.95, SAQ #11859005. White stone fruits with a subtle note of sweet herbs. Minerality is subtle for the moment, as are the aromatics, but very classy Soave. This will age magnificently as well. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, modules meunières, grilled scallops. Veneto Igt 2012, Capitel Foscarino, Anselmi, Italy, white, $24.75, SAQ #928218. Richly textured Soave that shows a touch of sweetness on the finish. Is it the lees stirring or a hint of residual sugar? Not sure, but the result is one of the bigger garganega wines I have tasted. Spicy, ripe, with fruit bordering on the exotic and a solid mineral intensity on the finish. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster, crab. Soave Classico 2012, Monte Fiorentine, Ca’Rugate, Italy white, $20.55, SAQ #10775061. Long lees contact have given it a rich, creamy mid-palate. But the fruit is good — white grapefruit, a touch of orange, enhanced by a subtle mineral note. Could use a bit more drive, but for the price, a good entry into the higherend world of Soave. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, richer fish dishes.

Soave Classico Superiore 2011, Vigneti Foscarino, Inama, Italy white, $25.05, SAQ #907428. Great Soave from an exceptional winery. Subtle notes of peach, pears, browning apples, maybe a touch of a bay leaf-type herb, all wrapped around a soft, mineral core. But this is about drinkability — rich, expansive, fresh. One of those wines that can be drunk with almost anything, at any time. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster. Soave Classico 2012, Calvarino, Pieropan, Italy white, $26.60, SAQ #741058. Lean and mean, this shows its volcanic origins. Mineral, mineral and more mineral. There is a notion of fruit, but this is all rock. As it warms, it gets even more textured. Almost Alsatian riesling-like in its structure. Very good. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster, sole amandine.