Montreal Gazette

Quality vermouths to mix or stand straight

- BILL ZACHARKIW

If you’re into cocktails, the quality of your vermouth does make a difference. If you drink it straight, that’s even more true. I like to drink mine with a single ice cube.

Either way, the following bottles are worth your attention.

After opening, it’s recommende­d to keep your bottle in the fridge, to preserve the aromas. Drink the bottle within a couple of months.

Vermouth de Cidre, Rouge Gorge, Domaine Lafrance, Quebec vermouth, $24.75, SAQ # 12979092: Amber colour, made with apple cider and apple brandy, along with a secret batch of herbs. The apple note is up front, but with a nice bitter and dry finish. Residual sugar: 14 g/L.

L’AGAVE ÉCARLATE (SCARLET AGAVE)

Created by Sam Dalcourt 1 1/2 oz. vermouth (Rouge Gorge) 1/2 oz. tequila (1800 Blanco) 2 1/2 oz. pear nectar 2 cinnamon sticks (in the shaker) Put all the ingredient­s in the shaker. Shake and double strain. Glassware: coupette Garnish: dehydrated blood orange wheel

Vermouth, Lab, Val Caudalies, Quebec vermouth, $24.95, SAQ # 12863014: Made with a base of seyval and vidal, this sweet vermouth shows notes of orange rind, spice and nutmeg. Finish is rich and fruity. Residual sugar: 14 g/L.

Red Vermouth, Guerra, Reserva Rojo, Vinos del Bierzo, Spain vermouth, $21.10, SAQ # 13038981: Italian style — red and with a pronounced sweetness. Very complex, with a mix of 20 herbs, flowers, seeds and roots. Finish has a nice bitter note with cinnamon and orange peel. Makes a great Manhattan. Residual sugar: 150 g/L.

Vermouth blanc, Domaines de Provence 30 de Provence Original, France vermouth, $28, SAQ # 13083896 (SAQ Signature): My go-to for a dry martini or Gibson. A blend of 49 plants and spices. A touch of oxidation gives it an aged apple note alongside rich aromatics. Residual sugar: 33 g/L.

Caperitif, Badenhorst, South Africa spirit, $29, SAQ # 12831872 (SAQ Signature): While they call it a wine-based spirit, it’s vermouth enough for me. Fortified chenin blanc, flavoured with cinchona bark and then macerated with 35 herbs. Just a hint of sweetness on the finish. Great with an ice cube. Residual sugar: 100 g/L.

Red Vermouth di Torino, Cocchi, Italy vermouth, $30 (SAQ Signature), SAQ # 12432185: Made from a recipe that dates back 120 years, this is the best red vermouth I’ve tasted. Grape-derived fruit shares the stage with notes of orange, bitter herbs and a touch of caramel. Beautiful aromatics. Finish is quite dry. Great on its own or in a Negroni. Residual sugar: 52 g/L.

Vermouth bianco, Asti, Mauro Vergano, Italy vermouth, $51.80, private import (Rézin): Available only on private import, this is the best I’ve tasted. Made with moscato and cortese, alongside the bitter notes of wormwood and other herbs. The finish is impeccably balanced. Works on the rocks or with soda. Residual sugar: n/a.

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