Montreal Gazette

TASTING NOTES

- Bill Zacharkiw

SALMON TARTARE AND LINGUINE PAIRINGS

SALMON TARTARE WINES MY CHOICE: Savigny-lès-Baune 1er Cru 2013, Aux Clous, Domaine Louis Chenu et Filles, France red, $44, SAQ # 12876106. Not a ton left in the system, but a subtle and nuanced Burgundy that shows red fruit and spice, with a core of minerals and a solid acidity. A slight herbal note adds depth. Very fine tannin. Grape variety: pinot noir. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: apéritif, salmon tartare. Pinot Noir 2015, Reserva, Cono Sur, Chile red, $15.10, SAQ # 874891:

Hard to beat at this price. Shows juicy red field fruit, alongside fine tannins and just enough acidity to keep it fresh. Hard to find a pinot noir at this price that shows such refinement. Grape variety: pinot noir. Residual sugar: 3.5 g/L. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, pork with fruit salsa, salmon. Bourgogne 2014, Chapitre Suivant, Domaine René Bouvier, France red, $23, SAQ # 11153264: One of the rare deals under $25 in red Burgundy. Bouvier’s 2014 shows more of the floral and fruity side of the grape, with just a touch of oak-driven spice on the finish. Tannins are there, but fine and in the background. Grape variety: pinot noir. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, white meats, salmon. Pinot Noir 2015, Marlboroug­h, Saint Clair, New Zealand red, $23.80, SAQ # 10826543: Very bright and red-fruited, with a subtle mineral note that runs through the wine. This is the leaner side of pinot noir, but it shines as brilliantl­y as its acidity. Grape variety: pinot noir. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, pâtés and charcuteri­e, salmon.

LINGUINE WINES

MY CHOICE: Soave 2014, Vigne della Brà, Cantina Filippi, Italy white, $29.95, SAQ # 13117654. One of my favourite Soave producers. Eighteen months of aging on its lees (dead yeast cells) adds a touch more richness to the palate, but this remains a wonderfull­y mineral, focused wine. A hint of orchard fruit adds a touch of brightness. Brilliant. Grape variety: garganega. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: apéritif, linguine with anchovies, oysters, seafood pasta. Sicilia Igt 2015, La Segreta, Planeta, Italy white, $15.55, SAQ # 741264: Always good; this vintage is less aromatic and more constructe­d along acidity and minerality. The attack is citrus and stone fruits, but it gains a richer, more buttery texture as you drink. Becomes almost honeyed as it warms. Great all-purpose wine. Grape varieties: grenache blanc, chardonnay, fiano, viognier. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, mussels, cold seafood platters. Chablis 2015, Saint-Martin, Domaine Laroche, France white, $24.55, SAQ # 114223: For a Chablis, this shows surprising texture. The signature minerality is there, but embedded in a rich, buttery coating. Great lobster Chablis. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 1.5 g/L. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, linguine with anchovies, boiled lobster.

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