SAARU (OR RASAM) POWDER

Saarina Pudi Vegan, gluten-free

Makes: about 2 cups

1 cup (250 mL) coriander seeds 2 tbsp (30 mL) cumin seeds 2 tbsp (30 mL) black mustard seeds

1 1/2 tbsp (22 mL) fenugreek seeds

1 tsp (5 mL) ghee or canola oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) whole black peppercorns

2 (3-inch/7.5-cm) cinnamon sticks

3/4 cup (175 mL) fresh curry leaves, loosely packed (optional; see note) 40 dried red chilies or 60 dried Byadgi chilies, stems removed (see note)

1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) asafetida ( hing) powder

1 tsp (5 mL) turmeric powder

1. In a cast-iron frying pan or other heavy pan over medium-low heat, roast the coriander seeds, stirring them continuously until fragrant. Be watchful that they do not burn. Transfer to a plate to cool. Add the cumin seeds to the pan. Stir and roast until you smell their aroma and the seeds turn golden brown. Transfer them to the plate to cool. Add the black mustard seeds. Stir and fry them until you see a number of them popping in the pan. Transfer to the plate to cool. Add the fenugreek seeds to the pan. Stir and roast them until they turn golden brown and have a nutty aroma. Transfer to the plate to cool.

2. Add 1/2 tsp (2 mL) of the ghee to the pan. When melted, add the black peppercorns and cinnamon sticks and stir and fry until they are fragrant and sputter. Transfer to the plate to cool. Add another 1/4 tsp (1 mL) ghee to the pan. When melted, add the curry leaves, if using. Roast the leaves, stirring, until they have dried and start to curl up. Transfer the leaves to the plate to cool.

3. Add the remaining 1/4 tsp (1 mL) of ghee to the pan. When melted, add the dried red chilies. Stir and fry them until they warm up and become fragrant, and your nose starts to tickle. Turn off the heat. Add the rest of the roasted ingredients to the pan and mix.

4. Cool spices and grind them to a fine powder in a spice grinder or powerful blender. Mix in the asafetida and turmeric powder. Store in an airtight container for several months at room temperature, and longer in the refrigerator.

Notes: You can use dried curry leaves or omit them, and instead add them when making the saaru, to give this powder a longer shelf life.

Agrawal prefer using Byadgi chilies, which are available at Indian shops and online, because they have a subtle spiciness and their deep red colour provides a nice hue to the powder.

You can also use a combination of dried red and Byadgi chilies. It’s best to err on the side of less chili because you can always roast and grind more to add to your powder if you want more heat.