A GUIDE TO INEXPENSIVE ROSÉS
Bill Zacharkiw shares his top selections
Since I started writing this column in 2007, I haven’t really done rosé guides, opting instead to add a Rosé of the Week to the Wines of the Week beginning in 2010. But I have received a number of requests for a list of inexpensive rosés. So far in 2017, I have tasted more than 70 pink wines, most of them under the $18 barrier. So here’s a list of my favourites that you can clip.
Almost half of the pink wines available this summer are over $18; I will talk about those in my Rosé of the Week, which starts back up next week. The SAQ has not released all of its rosés yet, so if another good-value pink hits the shelves, I’ll be sure to let you know.
VIN DE PAYS DES CÉVENNES 2016 Domaine de Gournier, France rosé, $11.55, SAQ # 464602.
Very refreshing. While it remains more nuanced in the mouth, it shows dynamic aromatics with red berry fruit and a slight fresh garden herb note. Not the lengthiest, but good value. Residual sugar: 2 g/L. Grape varieties: mourvèdre, grenache, syrah, cabernet sauvignon. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, poached salmon.
PINOT NOIR 2016 Bicicleta, Cono Sur, Chile rosé, $11.75, SAQ # 11959348.
Despite the eight-plus grams of residual sugar, this works very well — just keep it under 8 C. The sugar amps up the aromatics and gives some body, but the wine remains focused with refreshing acids. Just a touch of tannic dryness on the finish tightens things up even more. Really good value for the price. Residual sugar: 8.7 g/L. Grape variety: pinot noir. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, grilled salmon.
Vieilles Vignes, Cazal Viel, France rosé, $12.40, SAQ # 10510354 (SAQ Dépôt only).
Lots of wine here. Almost has a tannic feel on the finish, which adds length and focus. But lots of fresh fruit alongside a dried herb note. Inexpensive rosé that works on its own, but best with food. Residual sugar: 1.7 g/L. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache, cinsault. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, fajitas, grilled pork with fruit salsa.
SAINT-CHINIAN 2016 Col de l’Orb, Cave de Roquebrun, France rosé, $12.70, SAQ # 642504.
Keeps getting drier and drier every vintage (and better for it). Still one of the more powerful inexpensive rosés on the market, making it very food-oriented. Raspberry fruit alongside an almost mineral, graphite note. Good value here. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, gazpacho, cold seafood salad.
LUBERON 2016 La Vieille Ferme, France rosé, $13. SAQ # 13288832.
Available after June 18. Quite fruity, but without going too far into that candy note. Acidity is good, and there’s a textured albeit short finish. Good apéro rosé. Residual sugar: 2 g/L. Grape varieties: cinsault, grenache, syrah. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, tomato salad with basil and balsamic vinegar.
CRÉMANT DE POMME ROSÉ 2013 Cidrerie du Minot, Quebec cider, $14.05, SAQ # 717579.
Not technically a rosé — the pink colour comes from the apple skins, which bring a nice hint of bitterness on the finish. Everything about this is explosive apple aromatics and flavour. And at 2.5 per cent alcohol, it’s less alcoholic than a beer! Residual sugar: 43 g/L. Serve at: 6 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, ceviche.
COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2016 Buti Nages, Michel Gassier, France rosé, $14.55, SAQ # 427625.
Organic. Great all-around rosé that shows fresh and juicy fruit up front, but with a nice core of acidity. Subtle herbal notes add depth. Quite nuanced, but shows decent length. Great for the price. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, salade niçoise.
PAYS DE BOUCHES-DURHÔNE 2016 Petit Bonheur, C’est la Vie, Bichot, France rosé, $14.55, SAQ # 13188807
Organic. Very delicate. The aromatic stage is shared between flowers, raspberry and a hint of fresh herbs, with the finish going more floral than fruity. Textured and elegant. If you like it subtle, this is a good choice. Residual sugar: 1.5 g/L. Grape varieties: cabernet, caladoc, merlot, marselan. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, salmon or tuna tartare.
LE ROSÉ GABRIELLE 2016 Vignoble Rivière du Chêne, Quebec rosé, $14.70, SAQ # 10817090.
A Quebec wine makes the list! Quite dynamic fruit, nicely textured with just enough acidity to keep it fresh. The extra weight on the palate makes it ideal for serving at the table. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Grape varieties: seyval noir, sabrevois, frontenac gris, St-Croix. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, lobster bisque, fish and chips.
TOSCANA IGT 2016 Rosato, Dogajolo, Carpineto, Italy rosé, $14.85, SAQ # 10263189.
Drier and leaner than previous vintages, which I like. Not a ton of fruit — it’s Italian, after all — but good acids and decent length. A real meal rosé. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Grape varieties: sangiovese, canaiolo. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, tomato and goat cheese salad, gazpacho.
HÉRAULT IGT 2016 Attitude, Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée, France rosé, $15 (1 L), SAQ # 12918476.
Talk about a great camping wine. A full litre for $15, and it even comes in a screw-cap plastic bottle! Light, fresh and quite simple, with nuanced red fruits. Easygoing rosé that drinks just fine. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Grape variety: grenache. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, bruschetta, trout and lighter fish.
GARD, SABLE DE CAMARGUE 2016 Le Pive Gris, Maison JeanJean, France rosé, $15.05, SAQ # 11372766.
Organic. Once again, pretty hard to beat. Nuanced fruit, very fresh and with a finish that shows enough of that garrigue (or wild aromatic herbs) to place it firmly in the Languedoc. So easy to drink, and shows enough length for lighter fare. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Grape varieties: grenache, merlot, cabernet franc. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, smoked salmon, quiche.
VIN DE FRANCE 2016 Le Berceau, Domaines Paul Mas, France sparkling, $15.95, SAQ # 12841510
What’s better than bubbles? While quite simple, Mas’s Le Berceau offers up some solid red fruits, with fresh cherry and strawberry. Bubbles show a certain finesse as well. Residual sugar: 12 g/L. Grape varieties: grenache, syrah, cinsault. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, smoked salmon, spring rolls, shrimp cocktail.
SPARKLING CIDER ROSÉ (WITH CRANBERRY) Entre Pierre et Terre, Quebec cider, $16.25, SAQ # 12030291.
Again, not technically a rosé, as it is made with cider as a base and is infused with cranberry, but this is one of my favourite pink drinks. The apple is there, with the cranberry adding some more effusive fruit notes. Very dry with elegant bubbles. At eight per cent alcohol, you can drink lots, too. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at: 6-8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif.
CÔTES DE PROVENCE 2016 S. de La Sablette, France rosé, $17.10, SAQ # 12990902
The bottle has a fancy glass stopper instead of a cork, and the wine itself is quite classy. Classic Provence with its nuanced red fruits, refreshing acids, dried herb note on the finish, and surprising length and texture on the finish. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Grape varieties: grenache, syrah, cinsault. Serve at: 10-12 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, lobster salad with coriander and parsley, fish soup, bouillabaisse.
COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC 2016 Pic Saint Loup, Château de Lancyre, France rosé, $17.35, SAQ # 10263841.
Power! Nose is a dense redberried salad with spice. Super refreshing, but with texture and a long finish. Not dainty in the least, but a great choice for a meal. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache, cinsault. Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: bavette with fresh coriander and chili, scallops, lobster.
COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE 2016 Château La Lieue, France rosé, $17.45, SAQ # 11687021
Organic. Lots of concentration here. Almost has a glycerol-driven sweetness. The fruit is there, but there’s less of that garrigue note than in past vintages. Still good, though there’s more torque than complexity. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/L. Grape varieties: cinsault, grenache. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, shrimp brochettes, grilled salmon.
CÔTES DE PROVENCE 2016 Domaine Houchart, France rosé, $17.65, SAQ # 11686503.
Richer-style Provence that still shows the classic Provence signature of fine acid, though with a touch more flesh, mostly due to extra sugar. Red berries, a hint of rosemary. Good complexity. Residual sugar: 4.7 g/L. Grape varieties: grenache, syrah, cinsault, cabernet sauvignon. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, spicy shrimp.