PUTTING A PRICE ON TASTE
What does a $30 bottle get you?
I get the question all the time: What are you getting when you pay more for a bottle of wine?
I know many people who refuse to pay more than $20 for a bottle of wine. Usually, they say that either they can’t tell the difference or that they have had the opportunity to drink a more expensive bottle on occasion but didn’t find it worth the extra money.
While more expensive is not necessarily always better, there is a difference, especially in the $10-$30 range, where the bottle price is a reflection of the cost of producing the wine. The main variables are yields and how the wine is made.
Yields are easy to understand. If a winemaker can harvest 80 tonnes per hectare versus 40, then that’s twice as much wine produced for essentially the same amount of work. That will be reflected in a lower selling price.
How the wine is fermented and aged will make a difference. If the winemaker uses new oak barrels, that will affect the cost. A 225L Bordeaux barrique costs upward of $1,500 and holds 225L. That will add $5 to each 750ml bottle.
Current fashions also have an effect. Many wineries purchase grapes from growers. Cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir, two current “in fashion” grapes, will fetch more per tonne than, let’s say, merlot or syrah.
Over $30, there are many factors that will affect the bottle price that are not related to cost of production. Some I believe are justified, others less so. The No. 1 reasons are notoriety and scarcity. Certain regions are known for producing wines that are unique — and very good. The top appellations in Burgundy — certain Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, Barolo and Champagne — are good examples.
Are they worth paying upward of hundreds of dollars a bottle? In some cases, I am willing to pay a premium. I love Champagne and Barolo. To some they are way overpriced, but I rarely taste a sparkling wine from another region with the finesse and mineral intensity of Champagne. No other wine region in the world can produce a nebbiolo like Barolo, with its pure cherry fruit, sensual texture and aromas of faded roses.
I am less inclined to pay for Napa cabernet or top-end Burgundy, but many do. But I also won’t spend more than the minimum on a car. It depends on priorities.
Will you taste a difference? I have done blind taste tests with friends who love wine but know little about it. Most often they can tell the difference. But is it better? For really expensive wines over $30, most are best after being aged. In many cases, I prefer drinking a less expensive, and concentrated wine, as these “cheaper” wines are made to be drunk immediately.
LESLEY CHESTERMAN’S RESTAURANT REVIEW WILL RETURN NEXT WEEK