DISCOVERIES IN THE DÃO
Underrated Portuguese region produces wines that suit budget-conscious buyers
Everyone loves a bargain.
In wine, prices are linked to two factors. One is the cost of producing the wine, which means yields, barrels and other efforts made by the winery. The more you spend on making a wine, the more you can charge.
Then there is the reputation of the appellation. Places like Burgundy, Bordeaux, Brunello, Napa and Champagne are very well known and can charge a premium because of the value of the brand. It’s not always merited, but generally the quality of the wines over the years has earned them the right to charge a little more.
But there are many appellations that are undervalued. Their wines satisfy all my criteria for greatness: interesting and tasty, able to age well, and fantastic wines in nearly all but the most decrepit of vintages.
Muscadet comes to mind immediately.
I was asked recently to suggest a place where I believe red wines are undervalued. While there are a number of them, Portugal’s Dão is at or near the top of the list. There are so many excellent choices that are well under $25, for both reds and whites.
The Dão region is south of Porto, and a touch farther inland. The soils are primarily granite, which tends to produce wines with delicate aromas and, for reds, fine and layered tannins. They are not blockbusters, and I compare them to Bordeaux in style.
The reds are blends of primarily four grapes: tinta roriz, alfrocheiro, jaen and touriga nacional.
These grapes are also grown in Portugal’s Douro region, but because the Dão isn’t as hot during the growing season, and because of higher altitudes and soil types, the wines tend to be less ripe and thus have less alcohol and more finesse.
There are almost too many worthy under-$20 Dão reds available. If I were to pick four, they would be the Duque de Viseu ($13.60, SAQ # 546309), Niepoort Rótulo ($15.60, SAQ # 13088030), Quinta dos Roques ($15.90, SAQ # 744805) and Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha ($18.40, SAQ # 11895321).
The whites are just as interesting, and inexpensive. As with the reds, the grape varieties are not household names.
Encruzado, cercial and bical might not sound familiar, but drinking them is not overly challenging. They tend toward the richer side of the spectrum, but always show good focus and freshness.
While often very hard to find, Alvaro Castro’s Quinta de Pellada Reserva ($24.10, SAQ # 11895364) is exceptional. Equally interesting is the Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha ($15.75, SAQ # 10760492) and Quinta das Marias ($20.55, SAQ # 12509461).
So if you’re looking to break the winter blues and explore on the cheap, there is no better place than the Dão.