L.A.-STYLE KALBI

Serves: 10

10 lb (4.5 kg) beef short ribs,

■ cut laterally to about 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) thickness

5 cups (1.25 L) water

2 cups (500 mL) reduced-sodium soy sauce, plus more if needed

1/4 cup (60 mL) fish sauce or reduced-sodium soy sauce 1 tbsp (15 mL) aged soy sauce 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) brown sugar, plus more if needed 1/2 cup (125 mL) mirin

1/2 cup (125 mL) grated Asian pear, or 1 kiwi, grated

1/3 cup (80 mL) grated or minced garlic

2 yellow onions, sliced into thick rings

8 green onions, cut into 4 pieces each

One 2-inch (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into chunks

1 tbsp (15 mL) freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp (30 mL) toasted sesame oil

For serving lettuce leaves, perilla leaves (see note), fresh warm tortillas, salsa and warm cooked rice

1. Rinse the short ribs under a thin stream of cool water to remove any bone fragments. Let the meat drain in a colander. Do not soak the meat in water. Layer paper towels on top of every 3 or 4 pieces of meat to absorb blood from the bones. Thoroughly pat dry each strip of meat. Using back of a cleaver or meat tenderizer, pound out the meat, going against the grain.

2. Place the water, soy sauce, fish sauce, aged soy sauce, brown sugar, mirin, pear and garlic in a large bowl, preferably with a lid (or use a large, heavy-duty resealable plastic bag). Mix well. Do not add the sesame oil at this time. Stir (or shake the sealed bag) well so that the sugar dissolves. Add the onion rings, green onions, ginger and pepper. Taste the sauce and add more soy sauce or sugar, as needed.

3. Add the pounded ribs, one at a time, making sure the marinade covers both sides of the meat. Add the sesame oil. Seal well and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 24. Be careful not to marinate longer than 24 hours, otherwise the blood will drain from the bones and ruin the marinade.

4. Remove the meat and discard the marinade (alternatively, reserve and reduce the marinade in a saucepan over medium heat to use as a glaze).

5. Heat a charcoal or electric grill to about 500 F (260 C). Cook the meat for 2 minutes on one side, then turn and cook for another minute or so on the other side, or until charred and crisp around the edges. Cook to your preference, just like bacon; some like it crispy, some like it chewy. We think the best bits are right around the bone, so to truly enjoy this part, crispy is better to ensure that the fat renders out completely. This is best cooked on a grill but can be pan-fried, then heated under a broiler (8 to 10 minutes, checking and turning every 2 minutes) to mimic the char from a grill.

6. Serve with lettuce leaves, perilla leaves, fresh warm tortillas and warm cooked rice.

Note: Find fragrant and sturdy perilla leaves (a.k.a. wild sesame leaf or kenip) at Korean grocery stores.