Montreal Gazette

ALLOW US TO EGG YOU ON

Try these twists from the Middle East

- KAREN BARNABY barnabyvan­sun@gmail.com

Pause for a moment and reflect on how important the egg is.

If you eat traditiona­l cakes, cookies or pastries, make your own ice cream, love French macarons, cream puffs, buttercrea­m and soufflés, like to eat or crank out your own fresh pasta, brunch on eggs Benedict, put mayonnaise on your toasted tomato sandwich or eat scrambled egg whites for breakfast, you’ll realize that the egg is one of your best friends.

It’s a source of protein that keeps well in the fridge and, when hard-cooked, is a neat and portable source of nourishmen­t.

Eggs are a local source of protein. If you live in a large city, a pleasant drive for fresh, local eggs will get you out of the city. And many cities and municipali­ties now allow the keeping of laying hens.

When I want egg dishes that go beyond traditiona­l Western cuisine, I look to the Middle East for inspiratio­n. These dishes are fresh and herbaceous, creamy without being rich and heavy on the vegetables. I think of them more as dinner dishes because they’re multi-dimensiona­l in flavour and texture.

Kookoo Sabzi from Iran is the most unusual, packed with fresh herbs and spinach. Fenugreek leaves are what give commercial curry powder its familiar fragrance. The leaves are used extensivel­y in Iranian and Indian cooking. It’s listed as optional, though it gives a wonderful flavour and fragrance to the dish.

A Middle Eastern grocery store is the best place to get large bunches of fresh herbs, so if you’re making the trip, pick up a package, as well as some dried barberries. Also known as zereshk, these are tart, slightly bitter and often used in rice dishes.

If you live in a large city, a pleasant drive for fresh eggs will get you out of the city.

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