Quebecers plant roots in Oregon

Domaine Roy et fils a successful spinoff

Back in 1986, a Colorado wine merchant named Michael Etzel purchased a 35-hectare farm in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and planted pinot noir. His partner, and brother-inlaw, was famed U.S. wine critic Robert Parker Jr. Their venture was named Beaux Frères, and part of their success can be attributed to a Quebecer.

The first harvests from Beaux Frères were sold to other wineries. In 1990, Quebecer Robert Roy invested in the business, on the condition that they build a winery and produce their own wine. They converted an old barn on the property, and Beaux Frères went on to become one of the best-known Oregon wineries.

In 2012, Robert Roy’s son, Marc-André, decided to establish the family’s own winery in Oregon. The Roys contacted their friends, ended up with a group of 25 Quebec investors, and created Domaine Roy et fils. I recently tasted their wines with Domaine Roy vice-president and managing partner Alain Plamondon.

Q So, what does it cost to start a vineyard, if that’s not too indiscreet a question? I know it’s a pretty common dream for a wine lover to start their own winery.

A The initial investment was US$10 million. They raised $7.5 million through the investors, and $2.5 million came from the bank. But all the investors were told at the beginning that this was a longterm investment, so not to expect a quick return.

Q What was the reaction from the locals about this Québécois invasion?

A It’s been really good. Robert Roy was already known in the area, and our winemaker is Michael Etzel’s son, Jared. In Oregon, the Etzel name is huge. When Michael bought his land for Beaux Frères, there were only around 30 vineyards (in the state). These guys were pioneers in Oregon wine.

Q But the industry is still relatively small?

A Our neighbours are happy that our goal was to make highquality pinot noir and chardonnay. Even though there are now over 700 wineries in Oregon, together we account for only four per cent of all the wine in the United States. We have to stick together and maintain our identity.

Q Did you buy existing vineyards?

A Our first land purchase was a five-hectare hazelnut farm in Dundee, which we planted in 2013. It’s a great spot — high elevation and with volcanic soil that’s typical of the region. Our second vineyard is 11 hectares and was planted in 2014. Both are organic, and we will be certified for the 2017 vintage.

Domaine Roy et fils’s 2016 chardonnay (SAQ # 13601403, $64.25) and their 2015 pinot noir Petite Incline (SAQ # 12882338, $57.25), which has a distinct Burgundian feel, are available at the SAQ. If you decide to make your way to Oregon, the winery has a tasting room. For more information, see domaineroy.com.

You can hear Bill Zacharkiw pair wine with rock on CHOM-FM (97.7) Fridays at 7:45 a.m. twitter.com/BillZacharkiw facebook.com/ billzacharkiwwine