Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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Each week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $16 Rioja 2017, Genoli, Ijalba, Spain white, $15.20, SAQ # 883033.

New vintage, same great value. The 2017 strikes me as a touch riper, with less citrus and more stone fruit notes. There’s more

body as well, and a touch of spice on the finish. Perhaps less of a classic minerality on the finish; rather, it has a certain saltiness. For the price, you can’t do much better. Grape variety: viura. Residual sugar: 1.4 g/L. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, lighter fish, fried squid.

$16-$20 Costières de Nîmes 2017, Château Grand Escalion, France rosé, $17.95, SAQ # 12843128.

One of my favourites from last year, and the latest vintage is equally good. Lots of peach and cherry, with delicate and floral aromatics. Refreshing enough for an apéritif, but with enough structure for a meal. It’s a red Côtes du Rhône in pink form.

Grape varieties: grenache, syrah. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, salad niçoise, bouillabai­sse, white fish, tomato and olive.

$20-$25 Langhe Nebbiolo 2015, Roccardo, Rocche Costamagna, Italy red, $23.85, SAQ # 13558513.

Few red grapes are as interestin­g as nebbiolo. While it’s not Barolo or Barbaresco, the wider appellatio­n of Langhe offers up superb versions of the grape at half the price. Here you get the sensual aromatics of roses and cherries, those fine tannins and lots of freshness. Length is superb and the finish is elegant. Pour it in the biggest wine glass you have and enjoy. Grape variety: nebbiolo. Residual sugar: 2.8 g/L.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing ideas: mushroom risotto, veal cutlet with wild mushrooms.

$25 AND UP Syrah 2012, Central Coast, Qupé, California red, $31, SAQ # 866335.

California is making some serious syrah these days, and Qupé is among the best. Dark cherries and blackberry, with a mouthcoati­ng texture without being heavy. While cabernet and pinot noir in California are often overvalued, syrah remains a bargain. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache. Residual sugar: 2.3 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: beef brochettes with peppers and onions, tamari and coriander marinade.

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