These frozen treats put flavour front and centre

Tasty recipes for 200 homemade frozen treats that put flavour first

The world of ice cream has changed immensely since David Lebovitz’s seminal book on the subject came out more than a decade ago.

Artisanal ice cream parlours are flourishing, and machines — from hand-crank to high-tech — are continually hitting the market.

With the advent of mix-ins — creative additions including candies, cookies, nuts and fruit — we have moved well beyond the constraints of 31 flavours. Today, each scoop offers an opportunity for hedonistic customization in the form of ripples, swirls and chunks.

“I’m really into mix-ins. I love the process of making them all and mixing them in. The older I get, the fewer pleasures I have,” Lebovitz said with a laugh.

“And I love chopping up toffee or swirling things in ice cream. It’s just one of my favourite things.”

Of his eight books, Lebovitz says The Perfect Scoop (Ten Speed Press) was the most fun to write. And his ice cream appreciation has only grown since it was originally published in 2007. When the publisher asked if he’d like to write a revised and updated edition for its 10th anniversary, he jumped at the opportunity.

“In the last 10 years, mix-ins have become very popular. Part of that is the internet. As we all know, people are like, ‘How do we take this over the top?’ and I didn’t want to go over the top — I wanted to take it to the top ,” he said with a laugh.

“If you’re going to do something, do it for flavour, not just because it’s fun or it sounds interesting.

“There’s a candied bacon (and bourbon) ice cream in the book. I actually love the candied bacon. I wasn’t just doing it for shock value. So it’s always flavour first.”

In 200 recipes, the new edition runs the gamut of frozen treats: ice creams, frozen yogurts, sorbets, granitas, gelatos and accompaniments.

Lebovitz retired a few recipes from the first edition to make room for a dozen new recipes, including more frozen cocktails (Negroni Slush, Gimlet Sorbet) and mix-ins.

In the midst of a small-batch ice cream boom, the most compelling reason to make your own is all about the experience.

“I think it tastes better,” Lebovitz said.

Excerpted from The Perfect Scoop, revised and updated by David Lebovitz. Published by Ten Speed Press.

PHOTOS: ED ANDERSON For a classic flavour combination, The Perfect Scoop author David Lebovitz recommends sandwiching his fresh mint ice cream with chocolate cookies or swirling with fudge ripple.

“A good sorbet should make the fruit taste even better than the fruit itself,” says David Lebovitz author of The Perfect Scoop.