Montreal Gazette

Wake up a summer classic

Asparagus with hollandais­e gets a remake with dill, roasting

- AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN

The combinatio­n of asparagus and hollandais­e is quintessen­tial in French cooking. Steamed asparagus is typically used, but the combinatio­n gets even better when the asparagus is roasted; the browning adds deep flavour to the sweet and verdant vegetable.

This complexity called out for a hollandais­e with a bit more character than our lemon-scented standby, so we decided to use our Foolproof Mustard-Dill Hollandais­e; tasters thought its zingy, herbal flavour woke up the dish.

When roasting the asparagus, America’s Test Kitchen discovered that thicker spears held up better to the high heat. Peeling the bottom halves of the stalks — just enough to expose the creamy white flesh — delivered consistent­ly tender and visually appealing asparagus.

To ensure a hard sear on our spears, we preheated the baking sheet and resisted the urge to give it a shake during roasting.

This recipe works best with thick asparagus spears that are between 1/2 and 3/4 inch (1.2 and 1.9 cm) in diameter. Do not use pencil-thin asparagus; it overcooks too easily.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH MUSTARD DILL HOLLANDAIS­E Serves: 4-6

2 pounds (1 kg), thick asparagus, trimmed

2 tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) salt

1/4 tsp (1 mL) pepper

FOOLPROOF MUSTARDDIL­L HOLLANDAIS­E

3 large egg yolks

2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice Salt

Pinch cayenne pepper, plus extra for seasoning

16 tbsp (240 mL) unsalted butter, melted and still hot (180 F/82 C)

1 tbsp (15 mL) whole-grain mustard

1 tbsp (15 mL) minced fresh dill

Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 F (260 C). Peel bottom halves of asparagus spears until white flesh is exposed, then toss with oil, salt and pepper in bowl.

Transfer asparagus to preheated sheet and spread into single layer. Roast, without moving asparagus, until undersides of spears are browned, tops are bright green, and tip of paring knife inserted at base of largest spear meets little resistance, 8 to 10 minutes.

To prepare hollandais­e, process egg yolks, lemon juice, 1/4 tsp (1 mL), salt, and cayenne in blender until frothy, about 10 seconds, scraping bottom and sides of blender jar as needed. With blender running, slowly add hot butter and process until hollandais­e is emulsified, about 2 minutes. Adjust consistenc­y with hot water as needed until sauce slowly drips from a spoon. Add 1 tbsp (15 mL), whole-grain mustard and 1 tbsp (15 mL), minced fresh dill to hollandais­e and pulse until combined but not smooth, about 10 pulses. Season with salt and extra cayenne to taste.

Transfer asparagus to serving dish and drizzle with hollandais­e. Serve.

 ?? DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE/AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ??
DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE/AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

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