A triple crown of flavour
Experiment with green onions, mint and parsley to make everything taste better
I think of green onions, mint and parsley as anytime flavours. No matter what else is in the vegetable world, they remain constant.
When cauliflower skyrockets, parsley and green onions remain the same. I will admit that I’m spoiled with mint because I’m close to several Asian markets that sell large bunches of a variety of mints.
Depending on where you live, they can be the first offerings from the earth with parsley and mint staying vibrant and fresh over the winter on the West Coast.
While you’re jonesing for your farmer’s market to burst with summer’s bounty, consider this vibrant trio.
Are you a defaulter? I’m a defaulter too, using green onions, mint and parsley as a garnish, rather than an ingredient most of the time. When I don’t default, I fully embrace, rather than offering a limp handshake.
My first encounter with this trio, the first time as ingredients, was in tabbouleh.
Never having been to the Middle East, I defer to Ottawa, my hometown, and home to a large Lebanese population.
There, 40 years ago, tabbouleh, hummus, baba ganouj, falafel, kibbeh and za’atar-spiked fattoush were reverently and gratefully eaten as part of my culinary upbringing.
There was a deft artistry to this food. It wasn’t sloppy or carelessly seasoned. It was always just right. I could tell that the invisible cooks who made it loved it, and wanted me to love it, too.
At first, I was taken aback by its intense green flavour. Ottawa tabbouleh was mostly parsley, mint, finely diced tomatoes and cucumbers punctuated with a little bit of bulgur.
The bulgur was rinsed and allowed to absorb water but not cooked which gave it a very pleasant chewy quality.
When I was first served tabbouleh that was mostly cooked bulgur, very little parsley and no mint, I was all “ewww” about it because it wasn’t what I was familiar with.
Chopping all that parsley can be wearying if you don’t have a sharp knife, patience, and stamina on your side.
Fattoush was another parsley salad with bigger pieces of vegetables and delicious croutons made from pita bread. Half of the salad was parsley, coarsely chopped and fluffy in appearance.
Tabbouleh isn’t the only way to enjoy this great combination. Sprinkle it on roasted chicken with lemon, or apply it to pork chops before cooking. Sprinkle on avocados, tomatoes, or cucumbers. Purée it with mayonnaise as a dip, or with yogurt and serve with Indian or Middle Eastern food. Add large handfuls to cooked quinoa and rice.
Which mint and parsley to use? Curly for tabbouleh and other Middle Eastern salads. I like Italian parsley in soups, western-style salads and stews, but I’m flexible about it. And for mint, whatever type you enjoy the flavour of.
ROASTED GREEN ONION SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE, PARSLEY AND MINT Serves: 4
The roasted green onions have a great texture, soft and chewy at the same time. Make sure you roast the onions until they start to brown to get it just right. You can serve this as a side with fish, lamb or chicken.
1 lb (454 g) green onions (about 5 bunches or 3 dozen)
3 tbsp (45 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp (1 mL) sea salt
1/4 cup (60 mL) water
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh parsley
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh mint leaves
1/3 cup (80 mL) crumbled fresh goat cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp (15 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1. Trim the root ends and an inch off the tops of the onions, keeping the white parts and green parts aligned with each other.
2. Heat the oven to 350F (175C). Place the onions in the baking dish and drizzle with the oil and salt. Turn them in the oil to coat them evenly. Pick up half of the onions and flip them over, placing the white parts at the opposite end of the dish. Add the water and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 40 minutes.
3. Raise the heat to 450F (230C) and remove the foil. Continue baking for 10-20 minutes, shaking the dish twice, until the liquid evaporates and the onions start to brown. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. 4. Stir in the lemon juice and pepper to taste. Add more salt if needed. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the parsley, mint, feta and pepper. Tastes best if served immediately and at room temperature.