CITY’S BEST BYOW RESTAURANTS
Lesley Chesterman picks her favourites
Of all the requests I receive for recommendations, nothing tops the demand for the best bringyour-own-wine restaurants.
Yes, we all like to save a buck on booze, but frankly, this category of restaurant has historically included some of the most mediocre eateries in the city, with a lot more misses than hits. Also, be wary of the idea that BYOW restaurants are a great deal: menu prices are often higher than at an equivalent licensed restaurant.
Still, while there was a time when BYOW typically meant watery pasta and garlicky brochettes, that’s no longer the case. Today the category counts many excellent restaurants that would be great even if they were licensed. Here are 10 of my favourites.
586 VILLERAY ST. 514-277-3339
A BYOW restaurant breathing new life into the category, Tandem offers serious gastronomic fare. Chef Pascal Turgeon and maître d’ Ericka Soleilhac are the co-owners, and together they have built a loyal following over the past seven years. The menu format includes three dishes for the price of the main course, so you can eat very well beginning at $39. More elaborate dishes have a surcharge.
Recent favourites include the goat’s cheese croquette, the deer filet and the desserts. The starter soup and salad are excellent, too. With great ambience and sharp service, this place has it all. Like all BYOW restaurants, a table here must be booked well in advance.
521 DULUTH AVE E. 514-521-4206
Since 1979, this busy Greek restaurant has been drawing in the crowds to feast on classic dishes ranging from the pikilia platter (mixed appetizers) to the Greek salad, from brochettes to baklava cheesecake. The indoor terrasse is another big draw, as is the quick service. The food is seriously delicious, so bring along your favourite bottle of assyrtiko, malagousia or xinomavro.
1251 GILFORD ST. 514-658-1839
Easily one of the most difficult tables to book in the city, Le Quartier Général is another BYOW restaurant with a gastronomic bent and soigné plate presentations. Chef Alexandre El Sherif ’s menu puts the spotlight on local ingredients, including such fine foodstuffs as foie gras, Stanstead rabbit and Gaspor pork.
The room is always bustling, but not annoyingly loud. The waiters are exceedingly friendly, and real pros. The menu unfolds in a table d’hôte format, which means the main course price includes a choice of soup or salad. For a few extra dollars you can add an appetizer and dessert — highly recommended if you want to make a night of it.
1915 MONT-ROYAL AVE. E. 514-528-4953
Co-owned by Marc-André Paradis, who counts several BYOW restos in his mini-empire (including Les Canailles, Monsieur B, Prince and O’Thym), Les Héritiers offers creative French cuisine made with local ingredients.
Service staff is friendly and efficient, the candlelit atmosphere is extremely appealing, and the food is pretty solid. Bring a few fine wines to the table and you have quite a memorable meal in the making. But even if you downplay the wine angle, you’ll enjoy this restaurant. It’s unpretentious, relaxed, modern and affordable. There’s a lovely terrasse out front as well.
771 RACHEL ST. E. 514-528-8555
When Prince opened in 2016, it set a new standard in luxury for BYOW restaurants. Not only is the room beautiful, with its white walls, white tablecloths and beige banquettes, the food is equally posh. The menu has changed under new chef and co-owner Jeremie Marcille, but the style remains contemporary French, with dishes such as beef tartare, os à moelle and rack of veal. There are vegetarian options as well, and decadent desserts that include brownies, churros, and key lime pie.
LE P’TIT PLATEAU 330 MARIE-ANNE ST. E. 514-282-6342
This excellent little French bistro specializes in southwestern French fare, which explains why there’s always hot and cold foie gras on the menu, as well as dishes with duck, braised lamb shank, cassoulet, rillettes, and the best duck confit and crème brûlée ever.
Chef Alain Loivel opened Le P’tit Plateau in 1997 with Geneviève Desnoyers. Their beloved restaurant is crammed with locals, and scores thanks to the great food and nice people. Supper here will transport you straight to Paris — or better yet, Brive-la- Gaillarde. (Take note: Friday and Saturday there are two sittings, at 6:30 and 8:30 p.m.)
PETROS 4785 SHERBROOKE ST. W. 514-938-5656
While many Greek restaurants in the bring-your-own category specialize in brochettes, Petros features classic Greek dishes we’ve all come to know and love, be they spreads such as taramasalata, nibbles like spanakopita, olive-heavy salads or a large selection of grilled fish and meats.
The look is blue-and-white taverna decor with pretty tiles, a classic fish-on-ice display by the open kitchen in the back, and a long terrasse running alongside the building. The way I’d go here is to eat tapas style, with dishes such as classic tzatziki and eggplant dip to begin, followed by appetizers including calamari, Greek salad, fried eggplant and zucchini. Be warned: the terrasse seating fills up fast.
WELLINGTON 3629 WELLINGTON ST. 514-419-1646
Verdun has a hopping food scene, thanks in part to sharp restaurants such as this great neighbourhood bistro. The room is simple in design, with the three big Bs of bistro decor: blackboards, banquettes and bare tables. Lighting is low and noise levels are high, but not high enough that you have to yell your way through the conversation.
Nothing at Wellington is edgy, fussy or pretentious, but it’s not steak/frites simple either, with foie gras here, duck confit there and a granité between courses if desired. The menu offers a table d’hôte format that includes five courses, but you can also order à la carte. Desserts are not to be missed.
MONSIEUR B 371 VILLENEUVE ST. E. 514-845-6066
Wedged in the middle of a residential part of the Plateau, this 40-seat restaurant has a real Parisian neighbourhood bistro feel. The surroundings are rather bare, with black-and-white photographs of the neighbourhood lining the walls and 1980s tunes in the background.
It is yet another BYOW owned by Marc-André Paradis with his partner, chef Georges Blais. Blais has managed to keep prices fair and the quality of ingredients high. The cuisine ranges from simple to elaborate — think tartare, risottos, bavette, short ribs, herb-crusted cod — with a tasting menu option for those up for the big foodie experience. Considering the low prices and the BYOW savings, this is a great choice for budget-conscious gourmets.
LE MARGAUX 5058 PARC AVE. 514-448-1598
Located just on the edge of Outremont and Mile End, this popular restaurant draws everyone from wine writers to ladies who lunch on the large terrasse in summer.
Owner Jérôme Chatenet cooks up lovingly prepared and presented southwestern French food, while his charming con jointe Corinne Cauhapé rules the dining room.
The menu options include à la carte offerings and a blackboard filled with nightly specials. Standouts include the snail trio, frogs’ legs, cod, and the simplest dish, a duck confit served with fries and salad. For dessert, don’t miss the praline profiteroles with chocolate sauce and the textbook tonka bean crème brûlée.
Cynical foodies, take note: the plate presentations are for those who like things fancy: slate plates, mason jars, zigzagged sauces, trios, terrines, edible flowers and desserts dusted with icing sugar.