Montreal Gazette

Interest in veganism is sign of a strong economy

Talk about morals, values linked to food is something that increases with prosperity, Sylvain Charlebois says.

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We seem to be living in an era in which the pleasure of eating is quite simply overpowere­d by values-based narratives in food consumptio­n. And this is happening at an astonishin­g pace. Vegetarian­ism and veganism are both coming into their own, allowing more people to “come out of the cupboard” to speak openly about and affirm their commitment to a self-imposed diet. They’re doing it for animal welfare, the environmen­t, health — whatever factor is deemed personally important. But make no mistake: this trend is an indication that the current economy is strong.

Many years ago, conversati­ons about food were about flavours, tastes and traditions. Today, we talk more about morals and values linked to how we consume food, simply because we can afford to do so. Stock markets are on a tear, and the unemployme­nt rate is almost at an all-time low. Food is not just about survival, but rather more about making a socioecono­mic statement as much as a moral one. At social gatherings, some are now made to feel as though eating meat is a crime.

In the past, consumers recognized the limitation­s on their ability to influence the choices made available to them, and they often seemed doubtful about the potential for collective action to work. They made little connection between threats to global food supply and their own daily consumptio­n practices. That has all changed, due to the abundance of time we now have.

Technologi­cal advances coupled with our pursuit of convenienc­e, have given us a lot more time to think about food in a different way. Grocery shopping and cooking at home takes less time than the pre-industrial practices of hunting or harvesting. With ready-to-eat food, or even ready-to-cook solutions we save even more time — time now spent on developing a philosophi­cal attitude toward food consumptio­n. Technology makes our lives simple, and with simplicity also comes greater coherent thought and enhanced self-awareness as a consumer and particular­ly, as a food consumer.

In the meantime, the industry is coping, and adapting quickly. A few stunning examples: McDonald’s is offering Big Macs without the meat, and according to some sources, the Beyond Burger campaign at A&W is having great success. We also have seen changes in packaging and labels to appeal to the increasing number of consumers who are rejecting the status quo, or anything that appears disconnect­ed with a holistic view of the world.

But it all really comes down to how the economy is doing. The current unemployme­nt rate is incredibly low, and according to Morneau Shepell, salaries should be going up by 2.6 per cent on average over the next 12 months. More money in the consumer’s pocket will allow them to believe they can trade up, or perhaps sideways, when making food choices. It also gives families muchneeded financial help. What is also enticing consumers is a weaker-than-expected food inflation rate across the country. Food inflation remains somewhat lower than the general inflation rate. So, prices have been less of an issue this year, although this is about to change.

Grocers are indicating that prices will increase due to tariffs. While the rationale of raising prices due to tariffs is highly disputable, when grocers use financial updates to let consumers know prices may go up, it is a sign. Loblaw and Metro have done it, and it would not be surprising if Sobeys follows suit. Food inflation should reach anywhere from two per cent to 2.5 per cent by year’s end.

Yet, even with higher food prices, the buoyant economy allows more of us to think about the ethical, environmen­tal and moral implicatio­ns of our food choices. And we can afford to — for now. Sylvain Charlebois is professor in Food Distributi­on and Policy, Faculties of Management and Agricultur­e at Dalhousie University in Halifax.

 ?? RYAN SODERLIN/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILES ?? Restaurant­s, including fast food establishm­ents, are increasing­ly offering vegan options.
RYAN SODERLIN/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILES Restaurant­s, including fast food establishm­ents, are increasing­ly offering vegan options.

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