WOWS ARE MULTIPLIED AT OLD PORT’S UN PO’ DI PIU
Greatness isn’t reserved for fine-dining establishments, but wine bars, cafés, trattorias — and this week’s ‘caffè’
With just a little over a month to go with reviews in this space, it’s clear that 2018 has been a stellar vintage on the Montreal restaurant scene.
There’s a handful of reasons (which will be detailed in the end-of-year roundups), but if I could narrow it down to one, it would simply be the high level of cooking. From golden cannelés to complex tasting menus, it is getting harder and harder to find amateurish cooking in our city. But what impresses most is that Montreal cuisine succeeds without the usual fuss that plagues restaurants tied to a Michelin-guide evaluation. And even when there is fuss, it’s smart fuss: no garnish for garnish’s sake or outlandish elements added for edginess.
Overall, Montreal cuisine is technically strong, inventive without relying on gimmicks, and, best-case scenario, produced with superb local ingredients. If our city merits the title of national gourmet capital, it would be for all-around excellence over a handful of fancy restaurants. And greatness here isn’t reserved for fine-dining establishments, but wine bars, cafés, trattorias, pizzerias, isakayas and corner bistros. Such was the case at this week’s “caffè,” Un Po’ Di Piu.
When observed from the outside, Un Po’ Di Piu has much appeal, thanks, first off, to its Old-Port-front location. Set on Rue de la Commune, a popular tourist strip known for souvenir shops and quick-fix eateries, Un Po’ Di Piu adds a welcome shot of elegance on a street that has fallen short of its esthetic potential. Once inside, the wows multiply while admiring the elegant decor created by über restaurant designer, Zébulon Perron. As much as I always thought of Montréal Plaza and Grinder as his best projects (among so many) Un Po’ Di Piu is my new favourite. The teal colour scheme, crushed-velvet banquettes, curved zinc-topped bar, stone walls, swirly marble walls and magnificent light fixtures all make for the most sophisticated space, with everything tied together by a stunning, mosaictiled floor. All that’s missing is Marcello Mastroianni sipping a Campari soda at the bar.
With its great location and fabulous decor, Un Po’ Di Piu is already a jaw-dropper. So the fact that the food’s so good feels like a bonus. When I initially heard of the project described as a destination for antipasti, aperitivos and Italian-themed breakfasts, I imagined Un Po’ Di Piu as more of a casual café than a restaurant. Owners Dyan Solomon and Eric Girard are also the talents behind two of the city’s most soughtafter tables, Olive & Gourmando and Foxy, and those two don’t do things halfway. I pictured going in for a cocktail or two, and small plates of cheese and charcuterie. How wrong! Thanks to Solomon, Girard and chef Nick Giambattisto, my meal at Un Po’ Di Piu was not only a full dinner, but one of the best of the year.
To begin, we kicked things off with a white Negroni and a Negroni UPDP, made with gin, vermouth, Campari and Cardamaro, an amaro flavoured with cardoons. Both were excellent, but the latter was so good that I licked the ice cubes clean. While nibbling fleshy olives we perused the menu, which offered the option of a “Torre,” a tiered serving plate with antipasti-like salami, nuts, eggs with anchovies and oysters. Following that there are nine small plates, two daily specials, and a half-dozen desserts.
The wine list is the work of sommeliere Kaitlyn Doucette, who does double duty at Foxy. Her choices are biodynamic or natural for the most part, the selection is inspired, and the prices are fair. We began with a Trentino Chardonnay, carried on with a Montepulciano and happily left with a half bottle in hand.
We ordered six dishes that were served two by two, beginning with burrata with roasted carrots and rapini, and mush- room bruschetta with garlicenhanced mascarpone. I won’t mince words here: both were downright delicious. The burrata paired beautifully with the sweet roasted carrots and the bitter greens. There was a nutty pesto spooned overtop and a glug of grassy olive oil to add depth of flavour. That’s one I’ll be trying to re-create at home for sure.
The bruschette were assembled on thin slices of grilled sourdough and piled high with an assortment of sautéed mushrooms topped with shards of grated Parmesan and a sprinkling of chives and lemon zest. Needless to say, those were wolfed down in minutes.
Next came the tuna salad, a sort of Italian take on the classic Niçoise, with tiny new potatoes, radishes, croutons, baby spinach, dill, celery, cherry tomatoes, an anchovy-topped boiled egg and glistening chunks of preserved tuna. Everything was at peak freshness and that tuna simply melted away on my tongue. Delectable — as was the simple green salad, a layering of the freshest greens topped with a showering of grated Parmesan and dressed with a straightforward lemon vinaigrette. No fuss, not a leaf out of place, just beautiful, simple food.
The main event was the two daily specials, both pastas: chicken gnocchi and rigatoni with meatballs. With its velvety chicken sauce, tender strips of shredded chicken, oven-roasted tomato and crispy chicken skin, the gnocchi was a triumph. Were there red peppers in there too? Can’t remember, we ate it so fast! The rigatoni was also marvellous, with its intense red tomato sauce and perfect little meatballs. It might have been a tad dry, but if it was, that was the only misstep of an otherwise perfect meal.
The final course played a central role in the evening as the O & G family specialize in chic’n’-homey desserts. We sampled three, including a deep and dark ( but not dense) chocolate cake with sour cream and preserved Italian cherries — lovely. Then there was the toasted almondtopped crostata with roasted peaches and buttermilk ice cream — amazing. And finally, an olive oil Bundt cake served with a perfectly balanced cranberry sorbet that offered contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures — basically everything a good dessert should be.
Add to all those adjectives the words “solicitous” and “well informed” to describe the service by our charming waitress Geneviève, and you have the full enthusiastic retelling of my night at this terrific new restaurant that is not only a looker but delivers as well. After a meal like that, I stop and think: “Boy, do we ever have it good in Montreal.”
At least on the plate.