Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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UNDER $15

Montepulci­ano d’Abruzzo 2015, Ilico, Illuminati, Italy red, $15.75, SAQ # 10858123

One of the better “bang for your buck” wines in this price category. Dark fruited, with just a hint of barrel driven smoke and spice. Tannins are gritty, but ripe enough that they don’t dry. This has length, fruit, spice and power. This is made for meat. Residual sugar: 1.4 g/l. Grape variety: montepulci­ano. Serve at: 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Minute steak, meat-filled ravioli.

$15-$20

Costières de Nîmes 2016, Cuvée Tradition, Mas des Bressades, France red, $17.80, SAQ # 10439383.

Lesser-known appellatio­n of the Rhône but a wine which follows the same mantra — great drinkabili­ty. Fresher and juicy, suave Grenachedr­iven palate with raspberry and spice notes on the finish. Versatile and so easy to drink. Residual sugar: 3.2 g/l. Grape varieties: grenache, syrah. Serve at: 16C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: Veal with mushroom sauce.

$20-$25

Soave 2017, Otto, Prà, Italy white, $20, SAQ # 11587134.

Is it an acid-driven wine or a wine of texture. It’s kind of both. You get a hint of subtle fruit, from melon to stone fruits, a touch of citrus and a mineral finish. These refresh. But as it warms, you can feel the richness of the palate, beautifull­y balanced with the acidity. Great Soave is a pleasure. Grape variety: garganega. Residual sugar: 2.6 g/l. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: Aperitif, seafood pasta with béchamel, white fish with lemon.

$25 AND UP

Pinot noir 2016, Sonoma Coast, Schug Estate Winery, California red, $29.95, SAQ # 10944232.

One of my favourite California pinots. A touch more aromatic than a Burgundy, but far from perfumed. The key is the texture. It stays lithe and streamline­d while offering up that soft and silky mid-palate. Perfect mix between Burgundian structure and California fruitiness. Grape variety: pinot noir. Residual sugar: 2.3 g/l. Serve at: 16C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: Aperitif, grilled salmon or tuna.

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