Want to kick the sugar habit? Try Grenache or Merlot
I run into lots of folks who are fans of red wines that have extra sugar in them. A “dry” red wine technically has under 4g/ l, so if you are a fan of Liano (9g/l), Caymus (9.9g/l), Apothic (16g/l) or Ménage à Trois (13/l), then you are drinking extra sugar. Most had no idea that was the case. While some are fine with the extra sugar, many people I talk with would rather not be drinking those extra calories, or if they are diabetic, the extra fructose. So what do I suggest to get people to kick the habit? Before jumping into alternatives, the SAQ lists residual sugar levels on the price tag in store, and in the “detailed info” section on SAQ.com. So the responsibility is yours, as it is with anything you ingest. So what exactly does the extra sugar do to a wine? It pumps up the aromas and softens tannins, but mostly it negates the effect of a grape’s natural acidity, giving the wine a creamier texture. This is what attracts most people to these types of wines. I was chatting recently with Marcus Notaro, winemaker at Stag ’s Leap Wine Cellar, about the “sugar creep,” about how residual sugar levels are inching up as other wineries have taken notice of how well these wines sell. He refuses to do it. We eventually got on the subject of how much I like some California Merlot and I said that basically, adding sugar to Cabernet Sauvignon is turning the wine into a Merlot. Merlot is known for naturally having a plush, creamy palate as opposed to cabernet, which is more linear. Merlot also tends to have much less tannin, so it is less “drying.” While the fruit is a different, Merlot tends to be more dark plum rather than cabernet’s cassis or blackberry, that for me is secondary. If you want to try one, check out the 2015 J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Bonterra Mendocino or, if you want to spend some cash and taste a truly great wine, the 2016 Napa Merlot from Peter Franus. They are all under 4 g/l of residual sugar but offer that rich palate without the sugar. The other option is Grenache. Much like Merlot, Grenache is known for its silky, fruit-driven palate. The grape also tends to show higher alcohol levels, which can bring a sensation of sweetness to the palate, even if there is no residual sugar in the wine. You have a lot of choice as well, especially if you want to taste wines from around the world. Australia has lots of old vine Grenache, and I prefer it to much of the shiraz. Try the Custodian Grenache from D’Arenberg or the Old Bush Vine from Yalumba. From France, there are some great options. Southern France, especially the Rhône Valley, is replete with great Grenache. The most famous appellation is Châteauneuf-du-Pape and, while pricier, is widely considered the top of the Grenache pyramid. Try the Vieux Lazaret or the JeanPaul Daumen and see if they can satisfy, but without the sugar. You can hear Bill Zacharkiw pair wine with rock on CHOM-FM (97.7) Fridays at 7:45 a.m.