Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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UNDER $15

Saumur 2017, Marcel Martin, France white, $14.55, SAQ # 13188794. Very good effort here. Chenin Blanc is one of the world’s most exceptiona­l white grapes and, while less complex than others, this wine does it proud. Nervous and twitchy due to its vibrant acidity, but let it warm and the grape’s honeyed texture shows. Great discovery for white wine fans. Grape variety: Chenin Blanc. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, cold shrimp or lobster with tarragon mayonnaise.

$15-$20

Tannat 2017, Reserve, Juanico, Don Pascual, Uruguay red, $16.70, SAQ # 10299122. While tannat can be a tannic beast, it’s in a friendly format here. Dark fruit, a slight meaty note, spice on the finish — you get lots of complexity. Tannins are firm and grippy, but give them some meat and they yield nicely. Lots of torque for a low price. Grape variety: tannat. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: flavourful meats like lamb chops or deer.

$20-$25

Saint-Chinian 2016, Au Fil de Soi, Clos Bagatelle, France red, $21.75, SAQ # 13298029. Beautifull­y textured. Perfectly ripe fruit, bringing sweetness to the palate but without any sweetness on the finish. Tannins are finely layered, silky, gripping yet not drying. Oak brings a hint of dried spice to the finish. If a comfortabl­e sofa were a wine, it would be this one. Grape varieties: Syrah, Grenache, mourvèdre.

Residual sugar: 1.7 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2022. Food pairing idea: braised meats with cloves, tamari and ginger.

$25 AND UP

Pinot Noir 2016, Sonoma Coast, Schug, California red, $29.95, SAQ # 10944232. It’s back! My favourite (relatively) inexpensiv­e Pinot from Cali. Walks that line between boisterous New World fruit and Burgundian elegance. Wood is but a whisper, adding a hint of dried spice and rounding out the acidity. Really easy-drinking, but far from simple. Grape variety: Pinot Noir. Residual sugar: 2.3 g/L. Serve at: 6 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, grilled tuna or salmon.

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