Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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UNDER $15 Pinot Bianco 2017, Rubicone, Dogheria, Poderi Dal Nespoli, Italy white, $14.55, SAQ # 13425972. People have been asking when more of this would arrive, and it seems my favourite inexpensiv­e white is back. Slightly punchier aromatics than one normally finds in a Pinot Blanc, but nicely defined citrus notes, good freshness and a mineral finish. Chardonnay light! Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Grape variety: Pinot Blanc. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, seafood pasta.

$15-$20 Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese 2015, Tenuta Il Bosco, Italy red, $19, SAQ # 965822. Exceptiona­l for the price. Delicate aromatics; so incredibly pretty. Texturally perfect — it has some body, but doesn’t sacrifice the refreshing acidity that makes Pinot Noir so easy to drink. This is lighter in style, but is so perfect in its simplicity. Grape variety: Pinot Noir. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, vegetarian-friendly dishes, grilled salmon.

$20-$25 Rosso di Montalcino 2015, Col d’Orcia, Italy red, $24, SAQ # 13927964. A warm year, but Col d’Orcia manages once again to make a rosso that is beautifull­y streamline­d and elegant. More textured than usual, with boozy dark cherry, a hint of mushroom and some spice on the finish. Easy-drinking, but with power. Like a mini-Brunello without all the oak flavouring. Grape variety: Sangiovese. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: veal Parmesan.

$25 AND UP Chardonnay 2013, Quarry Road, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara, Tawse, Ontario white, $36.75, SAQ # 13796327. If you need proof that Niagara makes world-class Chardonnay, it’s in this bottle. Great vintage, so you get that perfect combo of wiry acids and just enough flesh. A leaner Meursault might be a good comparison, but let’s stop doing that. It’s simply a great Niagara Chardonnay. Grape variety: Chardonnay. Residual sugar: 3 g/L. Serve at: 10-12 C. Drink now2023. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, scallops and richer fish dishes. Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

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