Montreal Gazette

EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN LOS CABOS

Help prepare a meal from scratch during a visit to a Mexican organic farm and ranch

- KIM PEMBERTON

If you are a foodie, you are likely already eating where the locals eat on your travels. But the best way to better understand a country through its culinary traditions is by taking a cooking class.

In Los Cabos, Mexico, one of my best dining experience­s (and there were many) was a meal I helped prepare at Flora’s Farms — rated one of the World’s Best Farmstead Restaurant Experience­s, according to The Daily Meal: All Things Food and Drink and USA Today.

Convenient­ly located between Los Cabos’ two main communitie­s, Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, Flora’s Farms is like entering a different word.

Travelling down a bumpy dirt road, passing straw-thatched cottages along the way, I couldn’t help wondering how an organic farm is able to prosper out in this desert landscape.

Everything you will eat at Flora’s Farms is either grown on the 14-hectare farm or raised at the nearby 60-hectare ranch to ensure all their products are organic and hormone-free.

I soon learn from our cooking instructor, Azalia Nelson, that the farm exists thanks to a 21-metre-deep well on the property, which used to be a pig farm when its owners, U.S. expats Patrick and Gloria Greene, bought the property in 1996.

“Gloria never expected it to become what it is since she picked the land in the middle of nowhere,” says Nelson, adding the well was the main reason the couple chose this location.

Initially, they planned to just grow organic vegetables and fruit, which they sell at a shop on site called Flora Grocery. But their small business expanded to now include cottages for rent, a full-service spa, an alfresco restaurant, and a bar serving their signature fruit and vegetable cocktails (like the popular Farmarita, a fresh take on the classic Margarita using heirloom carrots seasoned with chili).

Today, the farm and the ranch has about 350 employees, from farmers who till the fields to the kitchen staff who cook authentic Mexican food from scratch using simple, fresh ingredient­s.

The heart of Flora’s Farms is Flora’s Field Kitchen, where cooking classes are offered three times a week, just a stone’s throw from where fresh herbs and edible flowers are harvested.

Our class begins with a tour of the farm, where we pass the baker busy making corn bread in a wood-burning oven, and the smokehouse, where six to 10 chickens are prepared daily. Three of the farmers are seen bringing in fresh produce to clean, and out in the fields we watch other farmers harvesting still more produce. Harvesting and cooking go hand in hand here.

We don our aprons in preparatio­n of learning how to make corn tortillas the old-fashioned way, roasted tomato salsa and rosemary guacamole, to name just a few of the foods that we will soon enjoy at a bountiful lunch enjoyed outdoors.

Nelson says nothing goes to waste here. The day-old tortillas are cut up to make corn chips, and even the rosemary stems are kept to be used as spears on the grill to add flavour.

The three-hour cooking classes are offered Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays and cost $130. The class includes a farm tour, a craft cocktail, lunch and a takeaway recipe book. Reservatio­ns are recommende­d both for the cooking class and the restaurant. Visit flora-farms.com.

My two other favourite dining experience­s in Los Cabos include Sunset Monalisa Restaurant (sunsetmona­lisa.com) and La Lupita Taco and Mescal (lalupitaty­m. com). The former is one of the most romantic dining experience­s in Los Cabos thanks to its spectacula­r setting over the Sea of Cortes. Seafood is a specialty here and the restaurant even has its own fishing boats. For something more informal, La Lupita Taco and Mescal is where discerning locals go to enjoy Mexico’s famous comfort food — a creative variety of tacos. Often crowded, the place has the feel of an outdoor backyard party, even more so when you order a flight of mescal.

Need to know: A great place to stay in Los Cabos is the centrally located Le Blanc Spa Resort (leblancspa­resort.com), which opened last March. This luxury, adult-only all-inclusive hotel, overlookin­g the Sea of Cortez, distinguis­hes itself by giving all guests the VIP treatment, including their own butler. The hotel has four buildings that curve towards the ocean, ensuring most guests have an ocean view, but the contempora­ry decor inside is equally amazing. The hotel also features seven gourmet restaurant­s, including an unexpected but outstandin­g Lebanese restaurant.

 ?? PHotos: KiM PeMBerton ?? Nearly every room at Le Blanc Spa Resort has an oceanfront view. The adult-only, all-inclusive resort has four pools, including two swim-up bars.
PHotos: KiM PeMBerton Nearly every room at Le Blanc Spa Resort has an oceanfront view. The adult-only, all-inclusive resort has four pools, including two swim-up bars.
 ??  ?? Sarah Jesson, centre, learns how to make salsa from Azalia Nelson, right. Cooking classes at Flora’s Field Kitchen are a way to learn about Mexican culture.
Sarah Jesson, centre, learns how to make salsa from Azalia Nelson, right. Cooking classes at Flora’s Field Kitchen are a way to learn about Mexican culture.

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