100 YEARS OF CHEZ NICK
The beloved Westmount restaurant reaches a milestone, but has to wait to celebrate. ‘Even in these trying times, the community has been very supportive,’ says owner Rob Callard, right, with business partner Nicos Kyriakopoulos.
What’s wrong with this picture? The dining area is empty. There is no long lineup at the door.
OK, a familiar picture at restaurants everywhere. But at the landmark Chez Nick on Greene Ave. in Westmount, it is tinged with additional sadness. The eatery was slated to hold its 100th-anniversary bash this week, with balloons, bands, big cakes and, as a bonus, 1920s prices. But due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Chez Nick, which is now offering takeout and delivery only, must forgo any fanfare until at least the fall.
Owner Rob Callard believes his resto is the second-oldest in the city operating in its original location. It has little chance of deposing the No. 1 longest-lasting original spot, Old Montreal’s Auberge Saint- Gabriel, launched in 1754. (While the Montreal Pool Room began on the Main in 1912, it has moved locations on the street.)
The no-nonsense Nick Alevisatos, who arrived from Greece, operated the restaurant as a no-frills diner from 1920 to 1970. Nick’s daughter Maria owned the now-defunct Le Transition, and son George, a one-time Montreal Alouette, ran By George catering. Son Tom ran Chez Nick from 1970 to 1995; he died in 2005.
Callard began working Chez Nick’s counter in 1982 while studying communications at Concordia. He has been boss since 1995 and recently took on a partner, Nicos Kyriakopoulos.
The menu has changed over the decades, from breakfast and deli-focused to more health-conscious fare. Kale may have supplanted bacon, but for longtime customers the legendary club sandwich will never fade from the menu.
What makes Chez Nick stand out is the diversity of its clientele, some of whom can recall coming 90 years ago. Captains of industry, bluebloods and politicos have long squeezed into the tight banquettes for sustenance and java. The restaurant was a hangout for DJS when CHOM and CKGM were down the street, and has attracted actors like Dennis Quaid and rockers like Jonas — who even worked there for a spell.
But it has also been a second home to regular folk without heavy-duty portfolios or inheritances.
“We have some customers who actually come for all their meals, three times a day,” marvels Callard, 57, the father of three boys. “That’s the sort of loyalty you rarely find these days. Even in these trying times, the community has been very supportive.”
Callard is frequently asked about the key to Chez Nick’s longevity.
“I always throw the question back at people: ‘Why do you like to come here?’ Generally, they say they love the old-school atmosphere, staff and consistent food quality. We don’t pretend to be the cheapest restaurant, but we do offer great value.”
Regardless, Callard reports that business is down 75 per cent. He had to furlough 20 employees, and he and Kyriakopoulos are working for free.
To Callard’s knowledge, this extended dining-room closure is a first. Chez Nick, which seats 70, even functioned during the 1998 ice storm. “We were actually incredibly busy then, because we had gas.
“Obviously, this is unsustainable long-term. I’m worried about the future,” Callard adds. “Fortunately, my landlord is letting me defer some of the rent. But I’m in better shape than most. Sadly, there’s going to be a lot of bankruptcies in this business.”
It’s not a long hike to work for Callard: after years of biking to Chez Nick daily from his Beaconsfield home, he moved to an apartment upstairs.
But Callard has had to deal with other battles. He had lymphoma and was in remission for 10 years, before relapsing in 2018. A year ago, he had a stemcell transplant.
“I’m still here,” he smiles. “I’m grateful and feel great. When I was off sick, I was sort of in quarantine. So I understand how people must feel now. Still, we really have to remain positive.
“But, guaranteed, that is going to be one heck of a party when we do get to celebrate 100 years.”