Inexpensive Portuguese white has good body and texture

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $16

Douro 2018, Coroa d’ouro, Pocas, Portugal white, $12.65, SAQ # 412338.

I love inexpensive whites that aren’t solely about zippy acids and lemons. Here you get a much wider aromatic spectrum and infinitely more body and texture. Starts with white flowers, pears and peaches, and finishes on almond and spice. Enough body to handle fish in cream sauce. Grape varieties: malvoisie, codega, rabigato, moscato.

Residual sugar: 1.6 g/l.

Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now.

Food pairing ideas: apéritif, lighter fish in cream sauce, seafood pasta with herbs and cream.

$16-$20

Tannat 2019, Reserve, Juanico, Don Pascual, Uruguay red, $17.15, SAQ # 10299122.

I finally tasted this again after a few years, and I like it even more. Tannat, of Madiran in France’s southwest, translates seamlessly to South America. Dark-fruited and dense. Richly tannic — in many ways, it tastes like a more rustic malbec. Spice-infused black raspberry and cherry. This is made for meat. Really good for the price.

Grape variety: tannat.

Residual sugar: 2.3 g/l.

Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2022. Food pairing ideas: pepper steak, stronger-flavoured meats such as deer.

$20-$25

Vin Gris de Cigare 2019, Bonny Doon Vineyard, California rosé, $22.75, SAQ # 10262979.

Randall Grahm’s take on Châteauneuf-du-pape (Cigare Volant) goes pink here, and the result is superb. While full of flavour — enough to handle some richer foods — the balance is exceptional, staying faithful to the Provence style. This is one of those rosés that you can let warm a touch so you can appreciate the aromatic depth and texture to its fullest.

Grape varieties: grenache, grenache blanc, mourvèdre, roussanne.

Residual sugar: 1.2 g/l.

Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, lobster, smoked fish and cheese plate.

$25 AND UP

Vin de Pays d’oc 2018, La 50/50, Domaine Anne Gros et Jean-paul Tollot, France red, $26.65, SAQ # 12936640.

This is what happens when Burgundian winemakers vinify in the south of France. Deliciousness. You can sense the more docile hand here as they bring all the majestic, sun-ripened fruit out of the grapes, but without any real astringency. Powerful, sure, but there is a Burgundy-like softness to the palate. Great freshness. Very cool wine.

Grape varieties: grenache, carignan, cinsault.

Residual sugar: 2.1 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2023. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, grilled bavette with grilled red peppers.