Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $16

Soave 2019, Torre dei Vescovi, Cantine Vitevis, Italy white, $11.90, SAQ # 13859877.

Drier and even better than the last time I tasted. This is an easy-drinking Soave that, for the price, offers up exactly what one should expect from the appellatio­n. The fruit is subtle, with pear and apple leading the way, and there’s a nicely textured mid-palate of almonds and spice. The finish is fresh. A good, inexpensiv­e introducti­on to one of Italy’s greatest appellatio­ns.

Grape variety: garganega. Residual sugar: 3.7 g/l. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, seafood pizza, pasta in cream sauce.

$16-$20

Dão 2016, Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha, Portugal red, $18.25, SAQ # 11895321.

If you find Douro wines a bit too ripe, the cooler-climate Dão produces much more finessed wines. The tannins are finer, and the fruit is more nuanced. This is a superb example, and it drinks so well at four years of age. Great complexity, with rich fruit and dried herbs, ending with a long, focused and downright juicy finish.

Grape varieties: tinta roriz, jaen.

Residual sugar: 2.3 g/l. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now2022.

Food pairing idea: roast pork with berry sauce.

$20-$25

Toscana IGT 2017, NC, Argiano, Italy red, $24.95, SAQ # 11269401.

Classic cabernet-driven Tuscan red. Surprising power and very Bordeaux-like with its blackberry and dark plum notes, suave mid-palate and a finish that shows lots of fruit, some oak spice and just a hint of green. The signature Tuscan freshness is there as well, giving the wine a serious drinkabili­ty.

Grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sangiovese, syrah.

Residual sugar: 2.4 g/l. Serve at: 16-18 C. Drink now2022.

Food pairing idea: veal with grilled mushrooms and roasted beets.

$25 AND UP

Rioja 2014, Reserva, Contino, Spain red, $29.45, SAQ # 12347159.

While this could easily age another five to 10 years, this is around the age where I like to drink my Riojas. Beautiful balance between that charming fruit and the oak, which offers up some spice and a subtle note of vanilla. While some prefer the older, softer style of Rioja, where earthy notes rule, I much prefer the fruit. Drinks great both ways. Classy and finessed.

Grape varieties: tempranill­o, graciano, mazuelo, grenache. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/l. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now2024.

Food pairing idea: filet mignon with red wine sauce.

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