Navarra 2017 sends me to summertime
Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.
UNDER $16
Penedès 2020, Tuvi, Sumarroca, Spain white, $15.40, SAQ # 13574687. Organic.
Strange blend, but well-chosen. You get the driving acidity of xarel-lo, which tempers the texture, fruit and aromatics of the other grapes. This one is fun. Floral, fruity, but without getting too perfumed. Love the melon notes. Keep it cold and gulp this one down.
Grape varieties: xarel-lo, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Viognier.
Residual sugar: 2.9 g/l.
Serve at: 8 C. Drink now.
Food pairing ideas: apéritif, prosciutto and melon, aromatic seafood stir-fries.
$16-$20
Navarra 2017, Laderas de Montejurra, Emilio Valerio, Spain red, $18.20, SAQ # 14182458. Organic.
It's rare that I recommend a red that has a touch of sweetness to it, but this wine transported me to summer with a single sip. The attack is slightly overripe cherry with a bit of sweet baking spice. The tannins are almost grippy, but they let loose and you get a powerful pop of fruit and oak on the finish. Easy drinking, but with enough going on for a piece of meat.
Grape varieties: garnacha, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo.
Residual sugar: 4.2 g/l.
Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2022.
Food pairing ideas: grilled sausages, baguette with mustard and herbs.
$20-$25
Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2017, Château Tanesse, France red, $20, SAQ # 13917205.
Surprisingly aromatic for a Bordeaux. You mostly get dark plum and cherry, which is so classically Merlot. It's all pumped up a little by the fresh oak, which hits you on the finish alongside a subtle note of mint and clove. Tannins are very finely grained and don't dry — they simply offer up more length. For the price, this is a very finessed, wonderfully balanced and classic Bordeaux. Just enough oomph for a piece of red meat, but I would go with pork or chicken.
Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet franc.
Residual sugar: 1.9 g/l.
Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2022.
Food pairing idea: roast pork with fruit and spice compote.
$25 AND UP
Crozes-hermitage 2018, Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, France red, $47.25, SAQ # 14024935. Organic.
This is a very luxurious Syrah. Not thick or anything — rather, a beautifully woven tapestry of dark currants, black olive and peppery spice. In a sip you get all the qualities of the southern part of the northern Rhône. While the tannins are pretty silky, there's enough structure for this to gain a bit with some age, and to calm down the oak. If you're looking to replenish the cellar with some quality at a good price, here's a great option.
Grape variety: Syrah.
Residual sugar: n/a.
Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2025.
Food pairing idea: roast chicken with olives.
Special to Montreal Gazette