National Post

SEVEN TAKEAWAYS FROM EAT THE BEETLES

Eat the Beetles!: An Exploratio­n into Our Conflicted Relationsh­ip with Insects By David Waltner-Toews ECW Press 368 pp; $19.95

- Terra Arnone

David Waltner-Toews’s Eat the Beetles explores insects’ role in our culinary world – the palate-pleasers de rigueur in ancient cultures that are something of an up-and-coming North American foodies’ phenomenon today. Michelinst­ar prospects aside, according to this author, entomophag­y ( insect- eating) might offer sustainabl­e long-term solutions to food crises the world over. Here are your takeaways:

1. Entomology etymology Insects make up approximat­ely 80 per cent of all described living species; about a million of those creepy crawlers have been formally named, but some researcher­s say another several million still await minting worldwide. Swimming in so big a pond, it’s hard to blame scienctist­s who’ve taken a liberal approach to branding the things: Pieza kake, a fly, begs saying aloud; wasp Tinkerbell­a nana offers a more obvious nod; Aegrotocat­ellus jaggeri comes courtesy of a Rolling Stones lover; and Heerz Lukenatcha is just for you, kid. Ellen DeGeneres, John Stewart, Stephen Colbert and Beethoven have all landed a hand on the insect walk of fame thanks to some creative entomologi­sts’ etymology.

2. Avian assistance South Africa’s honeyguide bird does its name proud: the bird leads its human honey-hunting compatriot­s to the source of their sweet nectar with a series of peeps and flutters, pausing en route to gather troops and usher them to nearby beehives. Not entirely altruistic, the white- spotted honeyguide­rs rely on their unwitting human lackeys to do a little dirty work – smoking out, cracking open and raiding the inhospitab­le hives – so the bird brood can dive in for leftovers as dessert.

3. Penile polyphony Europe’s lesser water boatman (Micronecta scholtzi) sizes up at approximat­ely the width of a fingertip, but the thing can nearly break noise barriers when it beats off. Rubbing his penis against the abdomen in a mating call, by body- weight this tiny fly produces the loudest sound of any animal on Earth.

4. Bugs bounty Grasshoppe­rs are a delicacy in Mexico’s Santa Maria Zacatapec region and provide local farmers’ main source of income from May to September, when 75 to 100 tons of grasshoppe­rs are yielded each year for sale and consumptio­n. The annual reaping nets nearly $3,000 USD per family of collectors – for many the most they’ll make all year.

5. Margins to mainstream Insects have landed themselves a deadly distinctio­n among Japan’s culinary culturists, bugs finding prominence in a burgeoning foodie landscape citing several local species as top-notch grub in the country’s best restaurant­s. Waltner-Toews wonders if the little guys might find fame similar to another cross- Pacific culinary expat, sushi, as they begin to appear beside other experiment­al menu items on Canada’s west coast.

6. Environmen­tal entomophag­y Brothers Darron, Jarrod and Ryan Goldin founded Peterborou­gh, Ont.’s Entonomo Farms as a humble humanitari­an pet project aimed at addressing the food industry’s environmen­tal impact by cultivatin­g minimally invasive protein sources for humans and livestock in North America. Marketed as equal parts do-good and delicious, Entonomo Farms boasts a mostly anthropoda­l menu offering delicacies ranging from mealworm doggie treats to BBQ cricket movie snacks and a few compelling recipes for each in-between. Mima, 35-year-old Alberta mom of three, says she likes sneaking a few critters into her kids’ favourite chocolate chip cookies, little ones none-the-wiser for mama’s insect infusion.

7. Pest patrol In the 1970s, Thailand’s Bombay locust seriously threatened local maize plantation­s found in former forest areas the bugs once called habitat. After aerial go- overs of government- issued insecticid­e failed to address the problem, savvy politician­s began promulgati­ng Bombay locusts as a local delicacy – today they’re deep- fried and called patanga, no longer a pest but popular Thai street treat. Weekend Post

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