National Post

Appley ever after

- Bonnie Stern

When my children were younger, we would go apple picking at Chudleigh’s farm every autumn. It was always a popular f amily outing. The air was cool and crisp, the leaves were changing colour and we were surrounded by apple orchards. We would come home and start baking immediatel­y.

With all the different varieties of apples available, I asked Carol and Tom Chudleigh which type of apple was good for what dish. Here are some of their tips:

Apples that l ose their shape easily are great for applesauce ( e. g. Spartan, McIntosh and Cortland).

Apples that soften but keep their shape are great f or pies and cakes ( e. g. Northern S py, I dared, Granny Smith, Golden Delicious and Honeycrisp).

Try using a combinatio­n of different apples in cakes where apples are chopped for a variety of textures.

Use Cortland apples in salads as they stay white longer after cutting.

The only apples not great to cook with are Red Delicious but they are a great eating apple.

APPLE AND OLIVE OIL CAKE WITH MAPLE FROSTING

This is one of the most popular cakes at the famous Ottolenghi cake counters in London, England. It’s one of my favourite recipes from their new cookbook, Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh ( Appetite). The maple cream cheese frosting alone may become your favourite all- time icing. When the book comes out Oct. 3, be prepared to want to make every recipe. ( This recipe has been adapted slightly for Canadian ingredient­s and equipment.) ❚ 2/3 cup golden raisins ❚ 1 cup water ❚2 2/ 3 cups all- purpose flour ❚ 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon ❚ 1 1/2 tsp baking soda ❚ 1 1/2 tsp baking powder ❚ 1/2 tsp salt ❚ 3 or 4 large Granny Smith or McIntosh apples, or a combinatio­n (about 1 3/4 lbs) ❚ 1 cup sugar ❚ 2/ 3 cup extra virgin olive oil ❚ 2 large eggs, lightly beaten, plus 2 whites ❚ 1 tsp pure vanilla extract ( or scraped seeds of 1/2 vanilla bean) ❚1 tsp grated lemon peel Maple frosting: ❚ 1/2 cup unsalted butter ❚ 1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp packed brown sugar ❚ 1/3 cup maple syrup ❚ 1 cup cream cheese (8oz) 1. Preheat oven to 350F. Butter bottom and sides of a 9” springform pan. Line bottom and sides of pan with parchment paper. Paper should rise 1” above sides of pan.

2. Place raisins and 2/ 3 cup water in a saucepan. Simmer gently 8 to 12 minutes or until water has been absorbed. Reserve.

3. Sift flour, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder and salt together. Stir well. Reserve.

4. Peel and core apples. Cut into 1/2” to 1” dice. Reserve.

5. Place sugar, olive oil, whole eggs, vanilla and lemon in bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment ( K- beater). Beat on medium speed 6 to 7 minutes or until mixture is light in colour, doubled in volume and slightly thicker. Remove from mixer, fold in apples, raisins and remaining 1/ 3 cup water. Fold in flour mix- ture gently just until combined.

7. Beat egg whites to soft peaks and fold i nto batter gently but thoroughly. Scrape batter into pan and level the top. Bake 55 minutes or until a skewer inserted into centre of cake comes out clean. Cool completely in the pan.

8. For frosting, place butter, brown sugar and maple syrup in bowl of stand mixer and beat with the paddle attachment ( K- beater) until light and airy. Add cream cheese, a quarter at a time and beat about 2 minutes or until smooth and thick.

9. Remove cooled cake from pan. Cut in half horizontal­ly with a serrated knife. Spread half frosting over the bottom layer. Place second layer on top. Spoon the remaining frosting on top of cake, leaving sides unfrosted. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

RUTHIE’S APPLE CAKE

Ruthie, my mom, served this easy-to- make- but- sodeliciou­s apple cake at Rosh Hashanah to wish everyone a sweet New Year and at many Friday night dinners. Use McIntosh apples for the right texture. ❚ 2 eggs ❚ 1 cup sugar ❚ 2/ 3 cup extra virgin olive oil ❚ 1/4 cup orange juice ❚ 2 tsp pure vanilla extract ❚ 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour ❚ 2 tsp baking powder ❚ 1/4 tsp kosher salt ❚ 1/2 cup brown sugar ❚ 1 tsp cinnamon ❚2 l bs McIntosh apples, peeled, halved, cored and coarsely chopped ❚ 2 tbsp (25mL) coarse sugar 1. Beat eggs and sugar with a whisk in a large bowl until thick and creamy. Whisk in oil. Add orange juice and vanilla.

2. In another bowl whisk flour, baking powder and salt until well blended. With a wooden spoon, stir into egg mixture just until combined.

3. Combine brown sugar, cinnamon and apples.

4. Spread about half the batter in a 9” springform pan. Spoon on apples. Spoon remaining batter over apples. Do not worry if the batter doesn’t cover apples completely and if it seems that there are more apples than batter. Sprinkle generously with coarse sugar.

5. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 50 to 60 minutes until a cake tester comes out clean when inserted into the centre.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

 ?? TYLER ANDERSON / NATIONAL POST ?? Apple and Olive Cake with Maple Frosting is one of the most popular cakes at the famous Ottolenghi cake counters in London, England.
TYLER ANDERSON / NATIONAL POST Apple and Olive Cake with Maple Frosting is one of the most popular cakes at the famous Ottolenghi cake counters in London, England.

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