‘MESSAGE OF AFFECTION, OF APPRECIATION’
HOW TO TURN ANY MEAL INTO A PARTY, ITALIAN-STYLE WITH CHEF LIDIA BASTIANICH
Lidia Bastianich knows how to turn any meal into a party. Sharing delicious moments with friends and family is second nature to the renowned chef. After all, her signature phrase is “Tutti a tavola a mangiare”: everyone to the table to eat.
For her latest book, Lidia’s Celebrate Like an Italian ( coauthored with her daughter, Tanya Bastianich Manuali), Bastianich says she took her cue from readers and viewers.
“I love that I’ve become a mentor, almost like a mother, to all the people out there that love Italian, that love cooking. I seem to make them comfortable,” Bastianich says.
The book features 220 recipes — including aperitivi, appetizers (recipes for make-ahead options follow), salads, pasta and more — and guidance on merrymaking of all descriptions.
“I’m really conscious of making it as simple as possible because Italian food is simple. It doesn’t need to be complicated,” she says.
For the holidays, Bastianich prefers to combine different styles. She starts with a stand-up appetizer buffet of room-temperature dishes: salads such as octopus and potato; and a spread of cured meats, cheese and pickled vegetables. She might have a soup course — agnolotti in capon broth is family tradition at Christmastime — followed by the main meal, served family-style at the table. Bastianich then reverts to a buffet for dessert.
No matter what style of party you choose, she emphasizes making the gathering your own.
“When you invite friends over, especially for food, with the food you want to send out a message of affection, of appreciation, of celebration. But also of culture — who your family is,” Bastianich says.
“Open up your heart and your story when you’re giving a party because with the food comes much more than just a bite in the mouth.”
BAKED GOAT CHEESE, FAVA, AND ARTICHOKE DIP
Intingolo di Fave, Carciofi, e Caprino al Forno ❚ One 10- oz ( 300 g) log goat cheese, at room temperature ❚ One 8- oz (225 g) package cream cheese, at room temperature ❚ Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 tbsp ( 30 mL) juice ❚ ½ tsp (2 mL) kosher salt ❚1 c up ( 250 mL) c oarsely chopped drained marinated artichoke hearts ❚ 1 cup ( 250 mL) f resh f ava beans, shelled, blanched, and peeled ( frozen favas are okay to use; see note) ❚ 1 bunch scallions, white and green parts, chopped ( about 1 cup) ❚ ¼ cup ( 50 mL) panko bread crumbs ❚ ¼ cup ( 50 mL) grated Grana Padano ❚ Crackers or toasted baguette slices, for serving
When using fresh fava beans, after shelling from the pods, blanch for 5 minutes in boiling water, rinse in cold water, and remove skin from each bean.
Preheat oven to 375F ( 190C). In a food processor, combine the goat cheese, cream cheese, lemon zest and juice, and salt. Process until very smooth, scraping down the work bowl several times in between pulses.
Add the artichokes, favas, and scallions, and pulse several times, just to break them up a bit; you want them to remain quite chunky.
Scrape the mixture into a 2-litre gratin or other shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with the panko and the grated cheese. Place on a baking sheet (to catch any drips), and bake until the top is golden brown and the edges are bubbly, about 25 to 30 minutes.
Serve with a basket of toasted breads or crackers.
If using frozen peeled favas, thaw under running water. Serves: 8
ROASTED OLIVES WITH ORANGE AND ROSEMARY
Olive al Forno con Agrumi e Rosmarino ❚ 2 oranges ❚ 1 lb ( 450 g) large green olives with pits (such as Castelvetrano) ❚ 3 tbsp ( 45 mL) extra- virgin olive oil ❚ 3 sprigs fresh rosemary ❚ 2 sprigs fresh thyme ❚ 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced ❚ 2 pinches crushed red pepper flakes ❚ ¼ tsp (1 mL) fennel powder (see note)
Preheat oven to 400F ( 200C). Grate the zest of one orange, remove the zest of the second orange with a vegetable peeler, and then juice both oranges. In a 9- by- 13- inch ( 23- by- 33- cm) glass or ceramic baking dish, toss together the olives, olive oil, 2 sprigs rosemary, the thyme, the zest removed with a peeler, orange juice, garlic, and 1 pinch crushed red pepper. Bake, tossing every 10 minutes, until olives are slightly shrivelled and juices have reduced to a glaze, about 30 minutes.
While the olives are still hot, break the remaining sprig of rosemary over the top. Sprinkle with the finely grated orange zest, the fennel powder, and one more pinch crushed red pepper. Toss, and serve while still hot.
To make fennel powder, toast fennel seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until fragrant ( 1-2 minutes), shaking periodically. Grind the toasted seeds in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Serves: 8
PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA “PURSES”
Fagottini di Prosciutto di Parma e Grana Padano ❚ 20 sturdy fresh chives, each at least 5 inches (13 cm) long ❚ 10 thin slices Prosciutto di Parma, each approximately 8 by 4 inches (20 by 10 cm) ❚ ½ cup ( 125 mL) grated Grana Padano ❚ 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter ❚ Ripe fresh figs, quartered, or ½ - inch ( 1.25- cm) cubes of ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon, for serving
Bring a large skillet of water to a boil, and add the chives. Stir, separating the chives gently, just until they turn bright green, about 5 seconds. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a bowl of cold water, and let stand a few seconds to stop the cooking. Remove the chives, and drain them on paper towels.
Cut the prosciutto slices in half cross- wise to make pieces that measure approximately 4 by 4 inches. Place 1 teaspoon grated cheese in the centre of each square. Gather the edges of the prosciutto over the cheese to form a “purse” with a rounded bottom and a ruffled top. Pinch the prosciutto firmly where it is gathered, and tie around this “neck” with a length of chive. Continue with remaining prosciutto slices, cheese, and chives.
In a l arge non- stick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over l ow heat. Add half of the purses, and cook, shaking the skillet very gentl y, until the undersides are golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and cook the remaining purses in the same manner. Serve hot with fresh figs or ripe melon pieces. Makes: 20 purses