Vegetarian recipes for a plant-centric Passover.
VEGGIE RECIPES REVEAL DEPTH OF JEWISH CUISINE
Jewish vege tarianism is an ancient concept, Paola Gavin says, one that dates back to biblical times. Due to adherence to kashrut ( Jewish dietary laws), there’s a wealth of plant- centric foods throughout the diaspora. It’s these rich and varied vegetarian dishes — from Austria, Egypt, Iran, and beyond — that Gavin features in her fourth cookbook, Hazana.
The acclaimed London, U. K.based author specializes in vegetarian cuisine, and has written cookbooks exploring French, Italian, and Mediterranean plant- based cooking.
“While I was researching the French, Italian and especially my Mediterranean book, I came across so many wonderful Jewish recipes. And I’ve always collected recipes — so I thought, this has got to go into a Jewish book,” Gavin says.
In writing her latest volume, Gavin delved into the culinary history of her own family — originally from Belarus and Poland — and examined Jewish traditions around the world.
“I come from an Ashkenazi background that was very meat-oriented. There are some family recipes that I’ve put into the book like bubeleh — little matzo meal fritters — and my mother’s way of preparing borscht with egg yolks and mashed potatoes, which is nice,” she says. “But I had to look further than my own particular heritage.”
In addition to 150 easy- to- prepare vegetarian recipes, Gavin in- cludes an overview of Jewish history and culinary traditions in select countries throughout North Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. She also offers background on Jewish holidays and festivals.
This year, Passover begins in the evening of March 30 and ends in the evening of April 7. The spring festival carries its own dietary restrictions, such as the prohibition of eating leavened foods ( hametz), which “have produced an enormous variety of dishes made with matzo meal, potato flour and rice flour.”
Gavin suggests making her eggplant and white cheese fritada — a baked egg dish that originated in Turkey and Greece — for the observance. Add some mashed potato or matzo meal to the eggplant mixture “to make it more substantial,” she says.
German and Austrian nut cakes ( nusstorten) are also suitable, and Gavin recommends her choco- late hazelnut cake for the movable feast. “It’s very light and it’s perfect for Passover or any time of year,” she says. “It just looks so pretty. I love it.”
Recipes excerpted from Hazana: Jewish Vegetarian Cooking by Paola Gavin, published by Quadrille Publishing c/o Chronicle Books.
EGGPLANT AND WHITE CHEESE FRITADA
Fritada de berenjena
Serves: 4
2 large eggplants, about 675 g ( 1 1/2 lb) 2 tbsp ( 30 mL) extra virgin olive oil 150 g ( 5 oz) feta or beyaz peynir ( Turkish white cheese), mashed with a fork 3 eggs 3 tbsp (45 mL) freshly grated Parmesan or kefalotiri cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Roast the whole eggplants under a hot broiler until they are soft and the skins are blackened all over. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh. Don’t worry if a little of the blackened skin is mixed in — it only adds to the flavour. Put the flesh in a bowl and mash with a fork. Add the olive oil and mix well.
2. Add the feta to the eggplant mixture, together with the eggs and half the grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Pour into a well-buttered baking dish and sprinkle the remaining grated cheese on top. Bake in a preheated 180°C (350°F) oven for 40—45 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Serve hot.
SABBATH ARTICHOKE SALAD WITH FENNEL AND HARISSA Salade d’artichauts cuits du Chabbat
Serves: 4
4 medium artichokes 1/2 lemon 3 tbsp (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil 225 g (8 oz) small white onions, peeled but left whole 3 garlic cl oves, f i nely chopped 1 medium f ennel bulb, trimmed and cut into thin wedges 1/2 tsp (2 mL) tomato paste 1 tsp (5 mL) harissa (see recipe), or to taste Abou t 1/2 cup (125 mL) hot water
For the harissa:
60 g (2 oz) dried red chilies 1 small head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled 1 tsp ( 5 mL) toasted and ground coriander seeds 1 tsp ( 5 mL) toasted and ground caraway seeds 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for storing
1. To make the harissa, remove the seeds and stalks from the chilies and place in a bowl. Cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 30 minutes, until the chilies are soft. Drain, then place in a food processor with the garlic, spices, salt and 2 tablespoons ( 30 mL) of olive oil. Process to a smooth paste. Spoon the harissa into a sterilized glass jar, and cover with a layer of olive oil. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
2. Trim and peel the stems of the artichokes, then remove all the outer tough, inedible leaves. Cut the artichokes in half and remove the fuzzy chokes. Rub the artichoke bottoms all over with the lemon half to prevent them from blackening, then cut into 5-mm (1/4-in) slices.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onions and garlic for 2 minutes. Add the fennel and artichokes, then stir in the tomato paste and harissa. Pour over the hot water and bring to the boil. Cover, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 20- 25 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the sauce has thickened. Transfer to a dish and serve at room temperature.
CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT CAKE Schokolade- haselnusskuchen
Serves: 8
Butter, for greasing Sugar or potato flour, for dusting 1 cup (250 mL) hazelnuts 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder 125 g ( 4 oz) dark chocolate ( 70- per- cent cocoa solids), broken into squares 5 large eggs, separated 1 whole egg 3/4 cup (175 mL) super fine sugar
For the icing:
125 g ( 4 oz) dark chocolate ( 70- per- cent cocoa solids), broken into squares 2 tbsp ( 30 mL) rum or hazelnut liqueur 3 1/2 tbsp (52 mL) butter
1. Butter a 23 - cm ( 9 - i n) springform cake tin and dust with sugar or potato flour. 2. Place the hazelnuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast in a preheated 160° C ( 320° F) oven for 1012 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring from time so they roast evenly. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Turn the oven up to 180°C (350°F). Process the toasted nuts in a blender or food processor until finely ground. Stir in the baking powder. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, taking care not to let the bowl touch the water, then set aside to cool slightly. 3. Beat the egg yolks and egg with half of the sugar until light and creamy. Add the melted chocolate and mix well, then fold in the ground hazelnuts. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites with the remaining sugar to stiff peaks, them gently fold into the chocolate mixture. 4. Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 40- 45 minutes or until a knife inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven, unclip the tin and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Turn onto a wire rack and let it cool completely. 5. To make the icing, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, taking care not to let the bowl touch the water. Stir in the rum, then remove from the heat and beat in the butter, a little at a time, until the icing is smooth and creamy. When the icing is cool but not set, spread over the cake.