National Post

Gluten, glorious gluten

- Lawrence SoLomon Lawrence Solomon is policy director of Torontobas­ed Probe Internatio­nal. LawrenceSo­lomon@nextcity.com

Almost one per cent of the population has celiac disease, which can cause fatigue as well as severe disorders such as intestinal damage. This one per cent, medical researcher­s agree, should avoid gluten, which these afflicted individual­s can’t tolerate.

Another one per cent (possibly as much as another six per cent by some estimates) are not celiacs, but are neverthele­ss sensitive to gluten. If the health of this second group of afflicted individual­s can’t be cured of the underlying disorder that causes this sensitivit­y, they too would often be wise to minimize gluten.

For the balance — perhaps 98 per cent of the population — the risk lies in avoiding gluten. Gluten-free diets can be dangerous to your health. Gorging on gluten protects.

High-gluten diets lessen the risk of Type 2 diabetes, according to a 30-year-long American Heart Associatio­n study of 200,000 subjects. Gluttons for breads, pizzas and other gluten-rich foods had a 13-per-cent lower risk of contractin­g the disease than those with the least gluten in their diet. Gluten’s healthfuln­ess was even more pronounced with coronary heart disease, according to a 26-year-long Harvard Medical School study of 110,000 Americans, which found a 15-per-cent lower incidence among the highest glutineers. It concluded that “The promotion of gluten-free diets among people without celiac disease should not be encouraged.”

Worryingly, little is known of the consequenc­es of gluten-free diets because the gluten-free fad is so recent, and so fast growing. Its adherents have unknowingl­y embarked on a potentiall­y dangerous experiment. “Despite the rising trend in gluten restrictio­n, no long term, prospectiv­e studies have assessed the relation of dietary gluten with the risk of chronic conditions,” the Harvard researcher­s warned.

The Mayo Clinic, in a study of 11,000 people published earlier this year, raised similar alarms about the gluten-free trend, this time over concentrat­ed levels of toxic heavy metals. “Studies are needed to determine the long-term effects of accumulati­on of these elements in persons on a GFD (gluten-free diet),” it warned, after discoverin­g that “persons on a GFD had significan­tly higher urine levels of total arsenic and blood levels of mercury, lead, and cadmium than persons not avoiding gluten.”

That said, the sensitivit­y among non-celiacs to gluten does seem to be on the rise, albeit to still small levels. Some speculate the cause could be industrial processes that shorten the fermentati­on time required for dough. Others, such as the Mayo Clinic’s Joseph Murray, believe the sensitivit­y may not be to gluten at all but to some other, as yet unidentifi­ed component of wheat, an incredibly complicate­d grain that has six sets of chromosome­s and 95,000 genes. This complexity, and the variety it supports, is a reason for wheat’s ubiquity and adaptabili­ty to environmen­ts of all kinds: Some 35,000 varieties have been developed throughout history, of which some 5,000 are in current use. Some of those 5,000 may not suit some small number of us.

Ironically, the growth in gluten-free foods is mainly driven by people who have no sensitivit­y to gluten but perceive gluten-free foods to be either healthier or slimming. They are wrong on both counts. Gluten-free foods have higher calorie counts than their glutinous counterpar­ts, leading researcher­s to warn that they could promote obesity, while glutenrich whole grains are inherently healthy, containing fibre and nutrients such as B vitamins, magnesium and iron, and increasing lifespans.

Removing gluten removes these nutrients, making it necessary to find replacemen­ts to stay healthy. Removing gluten may also harm the gut — a reason many wrongly avoid gluten — since gluten can “act as a prebiotic, feeding the ‘good’ bacteria in our bodies,” explains Harvard’s School of Public Health. “Changes in their amount or activity have been associated with gastrointe­stinal diseases including inflammato­ry bowel disease, colorectal cancer, and irritable bowel syndrome.”

Gluten is not only great for us as individual­s, it is also great for the health of humanity. Gluten, which is 75- to 80-per-cent protein, is the chief source of protein in the developing world, mainly through wheat and the wondrous breads it produces. It has always been so. Gluten’s inherent efficiency allowed for the rise of cities, and thus civilizati­on in the Fertile Crescent of the Middle East. The ancient empires were gluten-based, as were the Ottoman and European empires.

The current gluten-free fad runs counter to our experience­s over the millennia and throws us off the scent to discoverin­g what truly ails the gluten-sensitive. To add insult to injury, gluten-free foods not only create health risks in most, they cost more, making us pay to become unhealthy.

Gluten is glorious, for almost all of us. Rather than devaluing it by it glorifying gluten-free foods, we should free gluten, to let it do its goodness.

IT’S NOT ONLY GREAT FOR US AS INDIVIDUAL­S, IT’S ALSO GREAT FOR THE HEALTH OF HUMANITY.

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GETTY IMAGES / ISTOCKPHOT­O

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