National Post

Pro tips make simple cooking spectacula­r

Cooking tips from a pro will make for homemade deliciousn­ess Laura Brehaut

- Laura Brehaut,

‘When you can master techniques in cooking, you can make simple food really spectacula­r,” says Jennifer Segal.

The profession­ally trained chef offers the example of her pan-seared halibut with cherry tomatoes and basil (recipe follows). With six ingredient­s and five steps, it’s a straightfo­rward recipe. But cooking four fillets that are fantastic – not just fine – takes technique.

Firstly, Segal says, the Pacific halibut fillets must be sufficient­ly seasoned. Secondly, they should hit the pan when it’s “good and hot,” and be given plenty of space and time in order to attain a golden crust. If neither of these steps is heeded, you’re left with a disappoint­ing dish: under-seasoned fish that was steamed instead of seared.

“Most people growing up don’t learn technique. I know I didn’t. I had to go to cooking school to learn that,” says Segal. “I try to incorporat­e that into my recipes so that people can become better home cooks one recipe at a time. And then you find you don’t really need recipes as much if you can just get the techniques.”

In her debut book, Once Upon a Chef, the Cookbook (Chronicle Books, 2018), Segal shares 100 “family-approved” recipes – 70 of which are new (the remainder are favourites from Segal’s blog of the same name). Roughly 400 of her blog readers rigorously tested the recipes; their favourites (including the panseared halibut) bear a seal.

Segal’s “pro tips” accompany most recipes and essays on topics ranging from balancing flavours to transformi­ng scraps and leftovers, and mastering salt are interspers­ed throughout the book.

Many people under-salt their food, she says, and require some nudging to embrace its culinary potential. To help novice cooks train their palates, she specifies exact salt measuremen­ts for each recipe rather than instructin­g readers to season to taste.

“In culinary school… the chefs would taste my food and they would literally take a handful of salt and just throw it in. They were like, ‘Not enough salt!’ but it just takes a long time to realize that you have to push it to the limit,” says Segal.

“Going to cooking school is the most practical thing I ever did… Even if I wasn’t writing a cookbook or doing my blog, I would use what I learned every single day.”

 ?? ALEXANDRA GRABLEWSKI ??
ALEXANDRA GRABLEWSKI

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