National Post

Luxury meets adventure aboard Scenic Eclipse

This elegant mega-yacht is a ‘ big-deal ship,’ a steady ‘supermodel’ with a wild side Mia Stainsby

- The writer travelled as a guest of Scenic Canada. It did not review or approve this article.

I’ d imagined knocking back shots at the whisky bar with Helen Mirren. But that, of course, didn’t happen. Newly appointed as godmother to the elegant megayacht Scenic Eclipse, Mirren christened the ship before it departed from New York City. But she wasn’t on board.

This is a big-deal ship, the world’s first luxury discovery yacht, a supermodel who glides around the waters of Europe, the Mediterran­ean and the Americas. But she’s also got a wild side, too, muscling into the Arctic and Antarctica for five months with the highest passenger ship iceclass rating available.

It’s equipped for adventure with a submarine, two helicopter­s, Zodiac boats, kayaks, snowshoes, e- bikes and snorkellin­g gear for guests. “It would seem that no expense was spared to take ocean exploratio­n to the next level,” the Robb Report, a luxury- lifestyle magazine declared.

I was onboard the Scenic Eclipse on a leg of the New York to Halifax trip — my maiden cruise. My itinerary included stops at Martha’s Vineyard, Boston and Lunenburg, N.S.

Our cabin was a 34-squaremetr­e deluxe veranda suite with lots of storage, king-sized bed, mini-bar, sitting area and large flat-screen satellite TV. As posh as it was, our cabin was pretty standard on the Eclipse, where accommodat­ions ranged upward to a two-bedroom penthouse suite.

Upon boarding, we joined other guests in one of the lounges for a Champagne welcome. An Australian regaled us with tales of his travels, like when he found himself in Afghanista­n just as the Russians invaded. Scenic is Australian-owned, and we would run into many passengers from Down Under during our voyage.

As we left New York Harbor, past Hudson Yards, Lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty, I wondered when, not if, I’d be seasick. But Scenic Eclipse has technology called zero- speed stabilizer fins, which are said to increase stability by up to 85 per cent. A dynamic GPS further stabilizes the ship, eliminatin­g the need for anchoring.

If not for all the windows out to sea, the Eclipse is like a luxury hotel. I had a butler, on-call 24 hours, but missing the aristocrat gene, I felt bad asking for anything. We loved the premium whisky bar, Champagne bar, tea bar and well-curated library. Seven soigné restaurant­s plus room service, an exclusive 10-seat chef’s table and cooking school keep guests well fed. For wellness, there are indoor/outdoor plunge pools, a yoga/pilates studio, spa and gym. The food, drinks, shore excursions, amenities and tips are all inclusive except for the submarine and helicopter.

The service was exceptiona­l. There were 110 guests and 180 cheerful staff, always eager to help and with an uncanny ability to remember our names. The friendly vibe extends to the ship’s captain, who maintains an open bridge. It was well worth checking out the ship’s hightech nerve centre. As the captain joked, “There’s usually someone there.”

Staff included interestin­g experts including Natalie, a kayak guide from Toronto with experience in Antarctica and Greenland as well as an archaeolog­ist and anthropolo­gist. I attended a lecture by a photograph­er published in National Geographic.

On the first port of call, Martha’s Vineyard, we chose a bus tour of the island, one of four possible excursions. Our guide, a sixth-generation islander, shared the history and tales of the boldfaced names who frequent Martha’s Vineyard — the Clintons, the Obamas, Princess Di, the Kennedys, John Kerry, James Taylor, John Belushi, Ted Danson and Mary Steenburge­n to name a few. “They hide out in the woods here,” he said. We also had time to wander on our own around the pretty town of Oak Bluffs.

On the second stop, Boston, we had five tour excursion options — the Freedom Trail, Harvard University, duck boat, cycling or a taste of Boston. We chose the latter and wound through the Italian North End eating pasta, salumi, chocolate, pizza, coffee and cannoli. The guide was a history buff so we also stopped at Paul Revere’s house and the Old North Church. That evening, we attended a Boston string quartet concert on board and before retiring, stopped for a nightcap at the bar where my husband traded notes on Japanese whiskies with a fellow passenger.

The next day, at sea, I relaxed in the Observatio­n library and terrace overlookin­g the bow. We attended a wine tasting comparing New World and Old World wines, then retired to our veranda to enjoy the sensual sun and sea as the ship sailed northward.

Since I was a newbie cruiser, I sought opinions from seasoned ones. “I am pinching myself,” said Donna Marie Downie, from Scotland. “I’ll never want to travel on any other. Nothing will live up to it.”

Peter and Lynn Ryan from Australia had been on four other Scenic cruises, including river cruises in Europe and had booked a cruise to Norway in 2021. “I’m a marine engineer and this ship blows my mind,” said Peter. “It’s in a league of its own. Nothing I know of compares and I’ve worked on ships from 42 to 150 metres and been involved in building some.”

“Once you’re on board, everything is taken care of and the staff are so happy you’re there,” said Lynn. “I’m a scotch drinker and the whisky bar, I think, is amazing.”

When we reached Lunenburg, a UNESCO heritage site, I hopped aboard a helicopter. The crenalated Nova Scotia coastline was very pretty from the sky but the best view was of the Scenic Eclipse, sitting magnificen­tly in the harbour — something I couldn’t appreciate on board. The pilot circled around the ship twice because once was not enough for those of us in awe.

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